Lazio
Wild cicoria (chicory/dandelion greens) blanched until tender and then 'ripassata' — sautéed a second time in abundant olive oil with sliced garlic and peperoncino until the leaves absorb the oil and wilt into a silky, bitter-sweet tangle. One of Rome's most beloved vegetable preparations, served as a contorno to grilled or roasted meats or alongside sausages.
Bitter, garlicky, silky and olive-oily; the peperoncino adds heat that cuts through the bitterness; the double cooking deepens the flavour — a vegetable dish that is more than the sum of its parts
{"Blanch cicoria in abundant salted boiling water until completely tender — partial cooking leaves a tough, bitter residue","Drain and squeeze out all moisture before the second cooking — wet greens dilute the oil and steam rather than sauté","Start garlic in cold olive oil and bring up slowly — this extracts garlic flavour gently without burning","Add the squeezed cicoria and stir vigorously — the goal is for the leaves to absorb the garlic oil completely","Season at the end — the blanching water was salted; taste before adding more"}
{"Add a splash of the blanching water to the pan if the cicoria dries out — it contains some of the bitter compounds and adds flavour","A small amount of anchovy dissolved in the oil (before adding garlic) transforms this side into a condiment-level preparation","The peperoncino amount is personal — Romans traditionally lean toward 'abbondante'"}
{"Under-blanching — cicoria with any residual crunch is too bitter and the second cooking won't improve it","Not squeezing out the water — the excess moisture prevents the leaves from absorbing the olive oil","Burning the garlic — there is no recovery from burnt garlic; start fresh"}
La Cucina Romana — Verdure, Legumi e Contorni