Rome, Lazio
Rome's most ubiquitous side dish: wild chicory (cicoria di campo) boiled until completely tender, then drained, squeezed, and 'ripassata' (re-passed) in a pan of olive oil, garlic, and chilli until wilted, glossy, and slightly crisped at the edges. The double cooking — boiling then frying — removes bitterness while creating a more complex, garlic-forward flavour. The cicoria must be completely drained and squeezed; any residual water causes it to steam in the pan rather than sauté. Served throughout Rome as a contorno or as a topping for bruschetta.
Bitter chicory with garlic and oil richness; slight char; chilli heat; Mediterranean simplicity at its most satisfying
{"Boil cicoria in abundant salted water 10–12 min until completely tender — not al dente; it will be cooked a second time","Drain thoroughly and press between your hands to squeeze out as much water as possible","Heat olive oil, sliced garlic (not minced) and dried chilli until garlic begins to turn golden","Add squeezed cicoria to the pan; sauté on high heat, pressing down with a wooden spoon until any remaining moisture evaporates and the edges begin to char lightly","Season at the end — the boiling water salted the cicoria; taste before adding more"}
{"A small amount of anchovy filet added to the oil with the garlic adds an extra depth layer without the fish being detectable","The slight charred edges on the cicoria are the goal — they provide a smoky, bitter contrast that balances the garlic oil richness","Cicoria ripassata is excellent on bruschetta with a pinch of peperoncino and a hard-boiled egg","Wild cicoria (Cichorium intybus) is the correct variety — supermarket chicory, endive, or radicchio are not substitutes for flavour"}
{"Under-squeezing — wet cicoria steams instead of sautéing and never achieves the glossy, slightly charred result","Using chicory before boiling — raw chicory ripassata has a completely different, much more bitter flavour","Low heat in the pan — the sautéing step must be at high heat to achieve the slight char and caramelised garlic","Adding the garlic to cold oil — garlic added to hot oil colours correctly; cold oil makes it go limp and pale"}
Il Talismano della Felicità — Ada Boni