Tuscany — the dolceforte sauce reflects the Renaissance court cooking of the Medici, who incorporated the new spice-and-chocolate preparations of the 17th century into their existing agrodolce tradition. The Maremma and the Chianti areas are the primary wild boar hunting territories.
Cinghiale (wild boar) is the defining game meat of Tuscany — the Maremma, Chianti, and Casentino are among the densest wild boar populations in Italy, and the Tuscan tradition of wild boar cookery extends back centuries. Cinghiale in dolceforte is the aristocratic preparation: wild boar braised in red wine, then finished in a sauce of dark bitter chocolate, pine nuts, raisins, candied citrus peel, and red wine vinegar — the agrodolce-and-chocolate technique inherited from the Renaissance court tradition of the Medici. The chocolate adds bitter depth; the raisins and pine nuts add sweet-nut counterpoint; the vinegar adds acid. It is simultaneously ancient and complex.
Cinghiale in dolceforte is a layered preparation — the braised wild boar has an inherent gamey sweetness from the marinade and long cooking; the dolceforte sauce adds bitter depth from the chocolate, sweet richness from the raisins and pine nuts, and a sharp acid lift from the vinegar. The combined flavour is simultaneously ancient and complex. On wide pappardelle, it is one of the great game-pasta combinations of Italy.
Marinate the wild boar pieces (shoulder and leg) for 24-48 hours in red wine, juniper, bay, and rosemary. Drain and dry. Brown well in olive oil. Discard the marinade (too acidic after marination). Add fresh red wine to just cover, with a soffritto. Braise covered for 2-2.5 hours until tender. In a separate small pan, make the dolceforte: melt dark chocolate (70%+) with a small amount of the braising liquid, add pine nuts, raisins (pre-soaked in warm water), finely chopped candied citrus peel, and red wine vinegar. Stir until smooth and combined. Pour the dolceforte over the cooked wild boar and cook together for 10 minutes. The sauce should be dark, glossy, and complex.
The dolceforte sauce (dolce = sweet, forte = strong) should taste identifiably of both chocolate and vinegar — the balance is subtle; taste and adjust before adding to the boar. Farmed wild boar can be used if hunted wild boar is unavailable — but hunted boar from the Tuscan Maremma has a depth of flavour that farmed animals don't replicate. Serve with wide pappardelle or with soft polenta.
Using too much chocolate — the chocolate must be a background note, not the dominant flavour; 30-40g per kg of boar is the correct amount. Not marinating the wild boar — the marinade is essential for tenderizing and mellowing the gamey flavour. Over-braising — wild boar can become mushy if over-cooked; 2 hours is typically sufficient for shoulder pieces.
Giorgio Locatelli, Made in Italy; Slow Food Editore, Toscana in Cucina