Cioppino — a tomato-and-wine-based seafood stew of Dungeness crab, clams, mussels, shrimp, squid, and firm white fish — is San Francisco's signature dish, created by Italian (primarily Genoese and Sicilian) fishermen at Fisherman's Wharf in the late 19th century. The name likely derives from *ciuppin* (a Genoese fish stew) or from the English "chip in" (each fisherman contributing a portion of the day's catch to the communal pot). The dish is San Francisco's answer to Marseille's bouillabaisse and Lisbon's *caldeirada* — a fisherman's stew made from whatever the boats brought in, extended with tomato and wine into a broth substantial enough to feed a wharf full of workers.
A large pot of tomato-wine broth (crushed tomato, dry white wine, fish stock, garlic, olive oil, red pepper flakes, basil, oregano) with an abundance of mixed seafood: whole Dungeness crab (cracked), clams, mussels, shrimp (head-on preferred), squid, and firm white fish (snapper, halibut, or cod). The shellfish is added in stages — clams and crab first (longest cooking), mussels and shrimp last (shortest). The broth should be thin and aromatic, not thick — it is a broth with seafood, not a chowder.
1) Sequential addition — each seafood has a different cooking time. Crab and clams go in first; mussels and shrimp go in last. 2) The broth is tomato-forward but light — not a thick tomato sauce. The wine and fish stock should be detectable. 3) Dungeness crab is the anchor — the crab's sweetness and the work of cracking it at the table define the cioppino experience. 4) Crusty sourdough bread (AM8-01) for sopping the broth — this pairing is specifically San Franciscan.
Cioppino is communal food — served in a large pot or tureen at the centre of the table, ladled into wide bowls. Shell bowls and extra napkins are required. The broth-soaked sourdough at the end of the bowl is the best bite.
James Beard — Delights and Prejudices; Bi-Rite Market cookbook