Segovia, Castilla y León
The roast suckling pig of Segovia — a 3-4 week old pig weighing 4-6kg, roasted in a wood-fired oven at low heat for 2-3 hours until the skin is crisp as porcelain and the meat falls from the bone. The definitive preparation in the mesón tradition of Castilla is the theatrical plate-smashing: at the end of service, the proprietor divides the cochinillo with the edge of a plate, demonstrating how tender it is, then throws the plate against the wall. The suckling pig is fed exclusively on its mother's milk — hence cochillo de leche. The meat is white, barely seasoned, and has an extraordinary delicacy. The skin is the entire point.
The pig must be milk-fed — any older and the skin and fat are different. Season simply: salt, lard, water, and a branch of herbs under the body. Cook initially at 160-170°C for 2 hours, then finish at 220°C for the final skin crisping. The pig cooks in its own fat — no basting required. Rest for 15 minutes before service. The skin must shatter when touched — if it bends, it's not ready.
The wood-fired oven (horno de leña) is traditional and contributes to the flavour — a domestic oven can replicate the cooking but not the smoke character. The classic service in Segovia includes bread and a simple green salad. The cochinillo is best accompanied by young Ribera del Duero — the wine's tannin cuts the richness of the fat.
Older pigs — the skin will not achieve the correct texture. Over-seasoning — the milk-white meat needs very little. Rushing the low-heat phase — the fat must render fully before the high heat. Cutting with a knife at service — the plate demonstration is technique, not theatre.
The Food of Spain by Claudia Roden