Coda alla Vaccinara Antica
One of 18 entries · La Cucina Romana — Livio Jannattoni
Testaccio, Rome, Lazio
Rome's celebrated oxtail braise — the definitive Roman offal preparation. Oxtail segments braised for 4+ hours in a soffritto of celery, carrot, onion, tomato, white wine, with the ancient vaccinaro (slaughterhouse worker) finishing sauce: celery hearts, pine nuts, sultanas, bitter cocoa, and sometimes candied citron peel added in the final 30 minutes. This sweet-sour-bitter finishing sauce is what separates authentic coda alla vaccinara from simple oxtail stew. Originated in the Testaccio slaughterhouse district of Rome.
- Same oxtail/bull's tail braise with dark chocolate in the sauce — Spanish bulls are post-corrida; Roman are from slaughterhouses → Rabo de toro cordobés — braised bull's tail with dark chocolate and spice Spanish
- Long-braise oxtail technique; French version without the sweet-bitter finishing elements that define vaccinara → Queue de boeuf braisée — oxtail braised in red wine with vegetables French
- Same chocolate-in-savoury-meat-sauce principle; mole is far more complex but the chocolate-meat combination is shared → Cola de res en salsa mole — oxtail braised in complex mole sauce with chocolate Mexican
Deep gelatinous oxtail richness; bitter cocoa depth; sweet-sour pine nut and sultana contrast; tomato acidity; ancient complexity
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