Ligurian hill towns and farmhouse cooking. Rabbit is a traditional meat of the Ligurian contadino — the hills around Genoa and the Riviera were ideal for rabbit rearing, and the combination with local Taggiasca olives and pine nuts reflects the regional larder.
Ligurian rabbit braised with olives, pine nuts, white wine, rosemary, and the region's signature aromatic herb mixture. The rabbit is portioned raw, marinated briefly in white wine, then browned and braised in a covered pan. The combination of olives (preferably Taggiasca — small, mild, fruity Ligurian olives), pine nuts for richness, and white wine creates one of the definitive flavour profiles of Ligurian savory cooking.
The Taggiasca olives bring mild brine and fruitiness without bitterness; pine nuts add a buttery, toasted depth. The white wine and rosemary give the sauce a clean, herby brightness. The rabbit's mild flavour absorbs and carries these aromatics — a gentle, aromatic braise that is elegant without pretension.
Rabbit is lean and dries out if overcooked — the braise should be gentle (160-170°C in oven or low simmer on stovetop) and the rabbit should finish at the point where the meat pulls from the bone with slight resistance, not falling off. Taggiasca olives are crucial — their mild fruitiness and low bitterness are specific to the dish. Substitute with Castelvetrano or Nocellara if unavailable; avoid kalamata (too assertive). The pine nuts are added at the end of cooking to retain texture. White wine from Liguria (Pigato, Vermentino) is preferred for basting.
Debone the hindquarters before serving for easier eating; the saddle and forelegs are best left on the bone. A tablespoon of Ligurian pesto stirred in at the end of cooking brightens the sauce. The braising liquid should reduce to a light, glossy sauce — if it's too thin, remove the rabbit and reduce rapidly.
Overcooking the rabbit — the loin pieces cook faster than the leg; add them separately or remove early. Not browning the rabbit properly before braising — colour is flavour. Using canned olives in brine — they add salt without flavour. Skipping the overnight marinade — the wine tenderises and seasons the meat throughout.
Elizabeth David, Italian Food; Ada Boni, La Cucina Regionale Italiana