Marche — the wild fennel preparation of rabbit is found throughout the central Italian hills. The Marchigiani version is most associated with the Macerata and Ancona provinces, where wild fennel grows abundantly and rabbit is the primary small game animal.
Coniglio in porchetta is the Marchigiani preparation of rabbit cooked 'in the style of porchetta' — boned and stuffed with the classic porchetta filling of wild fennel fronds, garlic, rosemary, liver, and abundant black pepper, then rolled, tied, and either roasted in the oven or braised in white wine. The wild fennel of the Marche hills (finocchio selvatico) is the defining flavour — its anise fragrance perfumes the rabbit meat during the long cooking. The preparation is found throughout central Italy (Lazio, Umbria, and Marche all claim it) but the Marchigiani version uses rabbit and emphasises the wild fennel over other aromatics.
Coniglio in porchetta sliced reveals the spiral of fennel-scented stuffing against the pale rabbit meat — each slice contains all the elements simultaneously. The wild fennel fragrance is dominant and clean; the liver adds savoury depth; the rabbit is mild and slightly sweet. The pan juices, deglazed with white wine, make the best sauce.
Bone the rabbit completely (ask the butcher, or learn the deboning technique). Spread flat. Season the interior with salt, black pepper, and olive oil. Lay the wild fennel fronds (generous amounts), sliced garlic, rosemary, and the rabbit liver (chopped) across the interior. Roll tightly from the long side, tie at 3cm intervals. Brown all sides in olive oil. Transfer to a roasting dish, add dry white wine and a splash of water. Roast at 180°C for 1-1.5 hours, basting every 20 minutes. The roll should be golden on the outside and completely cooked through at the centre. Rest 15 minutes before slicing.
Wild fennel (finocchio selvatico) is different from cultivated fennel fronds — it is more assertive and anise-forward. In the Marche hills, it grows freely in verges and meadows in summer. Dried wild fennel seeds are a reasonable substitute for the fresh fronds out of season. The liver inside the roll caramelises during roasting and provides the umami backbone of the filling.
Not boning completely — any remaining bone makes slicing impossible. Insufficient wild fennel — the preparation depends on the anise fragrance; restraint here produces a flat result. Rolling too loosely — the filling falls out when sliced. Not resting before slicing — the roll needs to firm up.
Slow Food Editore, Marche in Cucina; Giorgio Locatelli, Made in Italy