Molise — the coppa di testa is prepared during the winter pig slaughter throughout the region. The citrus and spice addition is specifically Molisano and reflects the Arab-Norman seasoning tradition of the former Kingdom of the Two Sicilies.
Coppa di testa (literally: head cheese) is the Molisano preparation of the pig's head: the head is slowly simmered until the meat falls completely from the bone, the cooked meat and skin are chopped and seasoned with salt, black pepper, lemon zest, orange peel, chilli, and the Molisano spice mix (sometimes with cinnamon and cloves in the older tradition), then pressed into a cylindrical mould, covered with the strained gelatinous cooking liquid, and refrigerated until set. The result is a sliceable terrine of meat, skin, and tongue set in a clear, pepper-and-citrus-scented gelatine — eaten cold as an antipasto with vinegar-pickled vegetables.
Coppa di testa at cold temperature is firm, gelatinous, and intensely savoury — the pork fat in the gelatine carries the pepper and citrus aromatics; the meat pieces are varied in texture (tender cheek meat, firmer tongue, yielding skin). With red wine vinegar and pickled vegetables, it is the antipasto of the winter table.
Soak the pig's head in cold water for 24 hours (changing twice) to remove blood. Simmer in a large pot with onion, carrot, celery, bay, black pepper, and salt for 3-4 hours until the meat is falling from the bone. Remove from broth (reserve the broth), pick all the meat and skin from the bones (discard bones). Chop the meat and skin into 1-2cm pieces. Mix with salt, black pepper (generous), grated lemon zest, dried chilli, and a splash of red wine vinegar. Pack tightly into cylindrical moulds or terrine pans. Strain the cooking liquid, reduce briefly to ensure it gels when cold. Pour over the meat, ensuring it fills all gaps. Refrigerate 24 hours until completely set.
Test the gelatine set by chilling a small sample in a spoon — if it doesn't set firmly, reduce the cooking liquid further before pouring. The addition of tongue (cooked separately and sliced) adds a more delicate texture and flavour contrast. Serve sliced thin with giardiniera (pickled vegetables) or on bread with mustard.
Not soaking the head first — blood remaining in the meat produces a dark, slightly bitter gelatine. Not including the skin — the skin is essential; it provides the gelatin that sets the coppa. Insufficient seasoning — the gelatin dilutes flavour; season more aggressively than you think necessary.
Slow Food Editore, Molise in Cucina; Corby Kummer, The Pleasures of Slow Food