Castilla y León and Aragon, Spain
The milk-fed lamb of Castilla and Aragon — a 3-5 week old animal weighing 6-8kg, roasted in a wood-fired stone oven at low-to-moderate heat until the meat is pale, extraordinarily tender, and the skin has blistered to a thin, golden crackling. The parallel to cochinillo segoviano is deliberate — both are young suckling animals, both are milk-fed, and both are roasted in wood-fired stone ovens (hornos de leña) in the tradition of the Castilian mesón. Lechazo churro (from the Churra sheep breed of Castilla y León) is the most valued variety, with DOP protection. The meat is white rather than pink (the milk-white of the suckling), the fat is cream-coloured and mild, and the flavour is delicate — not the strong 'lamby' character associated with older animals.
Milk-fed only — 3-5 weeks old, feeding on mother's milk exclusively. Season simply: salt, water, and a branch of herbs. Roast in a clay dish (cazuela) or directly on the oven floor, low heat (160°C) for 2 hours, then high heat (220°C) for skin crisping. Rest for 15 minutes. The leg and shoulder can be divided simply with the edge of a plate — like cochinillo, the meat falls from the bone at the lightest pressure.
Lechazo churro can be found at mesones (old-style restaurants) in Aranda de Duero and throughout the Ribera del Duero zone. The cazuela or clay dish retains heat after the oven and acts as a slow-cooker for the final rest. The cooking juices in the pan are the sauce — do not discard. Pair with Ribera del Duero Joven or Crianza.
Older animals — the flavour profile changes entirely and the meat becomes pink. Over-seasoning — the milk-white meat has a delicacy that is easily overwhelmed. Rushing the roasting — the low-heat phase is essential for proper fat rendering.
The Food of Spain by Claudia Roden