Sardinia — cordula is documented from ancient pastoral sources and appears in 15th-century descriptions of Sardinian festivals. The braided preparation is specific to Sardinia; similar intestine preparations exist across southern Italy and the Mediterranean but the braiding technique is distinctly Sardinian.
Cordula is one of the most ancient surviving preparations in Sardinian cooking — lamb intestines (budella di agnello), cleaned thoroughly and braided into a long plait, then either grilled over live embers or stewed with tomato and peas. The braiding technique is specific: the intestines are plaited in the same pattern as a traditional Sardinian bread braid, producing a preparation that holds together during cooking and has a varying texture (outer surface crispy when grilled; inner folds tender). The grilled version ('arrosto') is served at festivals; the stewed version ('in umido') with peas and tomato is the Sardinian Sunday lunch. Both versions are ancient preparations that predate the tomato's arrival.
Cordula arrosto from the grill is charred and fragrant — the exterior crispy and slightly bitter from the char; the interior tender and yielding with a mild offal flavour that is considerably milder than liver or kidney. The lemon juice applied at the table cuts through the fat. For those who have grown up with the preparation, it is one of the most evocative tastes of Sardinian pastoral culture.
The intestines must be cleaned exhaustively — turned inside out, washed under running water repeatedly, soaked in acidulated water for 1 hour, rinsed. Braid into a long plait of 3 or 4 strands; secure ends with a toothpick or a piece of the same intestine tied. For arrosto: season with salt and lemon; grill over live embers, turning every 2-3 minutes, until fully cooked through and the outer surface is charred and crispy (15-20 minutes total). For in umido: brown the plait in olive oil; add tomato, onion, and canned peas; braise covered 30-40 minutes. Serve with Sardinian carta musica bread.
Cordula requires fresh, cleaned lamb intestines from a trusted butcher — this is an ingredient that requires good sourcing. The cleaning process is not pleasant but is essential; the preparation itself is considered a delicacy. In Sardinia, the full offal preparation (the 'quinta quarto' of the lamb — head, heart, liver, lung, spleen, and intestines) is used at the 'arrosto della pecora' (sheep roast festival).
Insufficient cleaning of the intestines — the offal preparation is acceptable only when the intestines have been thoroughly cleaned; any residual content produces an intolerable result. Braiding too tightly — tight braids contract during cooking and may tear; braid loosely. Not grilling long enough — the grilled version requires the internal temperature to reach cooking temperature throughout; grilling only until the outside is charred without adequate cooking through is unsafe.
Anna Gosetti della Salda, Le Ricette Regionali Italiane; Slow Food Editore, Sardinia in Cucina