Valle d'Aosta — the cotoletta alla valdostana is a mid-20th century formalization of the stuffed and fried veal chop tradition, using specifically Valdostano ingredients (Fontina DOP, local prosciutto or speck) to create a regional version of the broader cordon bleu/cotoletta tradition.
Cotoletta alla valdostana is the Valdostano interpretation of the Milanese breaded chop — a bone-in veal chop butterflied and filled with Fontina d'Aosta DOP and a thin slice of Prosciutto di San Daniele or Speck, then closed, pressed to seal, crumbed, and fried in clarified butter until the exterior is golden and the Fontina inside has melted to a pool. When the chop is cut, the Fontina flows from the centre. The preparation is a refined version of the 'cordon bleu' principle, entirely rebuilt around Valdostano ingredients. It is found in every trattoria in Aosta and in the ski resort restaurants of the valley.
Cotoletta alla valdostana cut open reveals the melted Fontina — pale gold, slightly stringy, fragrant with the mountain herb quality that only true Fontina d'Aosta possesses. The veal is tender beneath the golden, butter-fried crust; the prosciutto or speck adds a salty, smoky note that plays against the mild cheese. It is one of the most satisfying fried meat preparations in Italian cooking.
Use bone-in veal chop (costoletta con osso), preferably from the loin. Butterfly the meat by cutting along the bone without detaching — open like a book. Inside, place a slice of Fontina d'Aosta DOP and a thin slice of speck or prosciutto crudo. Close; press firmly so the edges adhere. Lightly flour; dip in beaten egg; coat generously with fine breadcrumbs (press crumbs on firmly). Fry in abundant clarified butter over medium heat — 4-5 minutes per side until deep golden. The internal Fontina should be melted. Rest 2 minutes; serve immediately.
Clarified butter is essential for frying at the temperature needed for a golden crust — whole butter burns. Some chefs press the crumbed chop in the refrigerator for 30 minutes before frying to help the crumb adhere. The bone adds flavour and provides a natural handle for eating. A squeeze of lemon over the fried chop at the table cuts through the richness.
Fontina not fully encased — any gap in the seal causes the cheese to leak out during frying. Oil too hot — the exterior browns before the Fontina melts; medium heat is essential for even cooking. Using packaged 'Fontina' rather than Fontina d'Aosta DOP — the melt and flavour are completely different.
Giorgio Locatelli, Made in Italy; Slow Food Editore, Valle d'Aosta in Cucina