Crapaudine (from crapaud, 'toad') is the French technique of spatchcocking a bird — removing the backbone and pressing the bird flat so it resembles a toad — then grilling or pan-roasting it under a weight. The flattened bird cooks in half the time of a whole roast, with both the breast and legs receiving equal heat exposure, solving the eternal poultry problem of breast overcooking before the thighs are done. The technique: place the chicken (or pigeon, quail, guinea fowl) breast-side down. Using poultry shears, cut along both sides of the backbone and remove it entirely. Turn the bird over, open it like a book, and press firmly on the breastbone with the heel of your hand — it should crack and the bird should lie flat, roughly symmetrical. Tuck the wing tips behind the shoulders. For grilling: brush with oil, season generously, and grill skin-side down over medium-high heat (250°C) for 12-15 minutes under a brick or heavy pan wrapped in foil (the weight ensures full contact with the grill, producing even browning and crisp skin). Turn, remove the weight, and grill flesh-side down for 8-10 minutes. Total time for a 1.5kg chicken: 20-25 minutes (compared to 60-70 minutes for a whole roast). Target temperature: 72°C at the thigh. For the pan-roast variation (poulet en crapaudine): sear skin-side down in a heavy ovenproof pan with butter and a weight on top for 8 minutes until deeply golden, remove weight, flip, and finish in a 200°C oven for 15 minutes. The skin should be uniformly crisp, crackling, and deeply coloured — the pressed contact with the hot surface is what distinguishes crapaudine from simple grilling.
Remove the backbone completely — partial removal prevents the bird from lying flat Press firmly to crack the breastbone — the bird must be fully flat for even cooking Use a weight (brick, heavy pan) to press the bird against the hot surface — full contact = even crisping Skin-side down first with the weight — this is where the crust develops 72°C at the thickest part of the thigh — the breast reaches 65-68°C simultaneously due to the even geometry
Marinate overnight in buttermilk — the lactic acid tenderises and seasons the meat deeply, and the milk sugars promote extraordinary browning For pigeon en crapaudine (the classical version), the smaller bird cooks in 10-12 minutes total and should be served rosé — pigeon breast is red meat A weight made from a cast-iron pan wrapped in foil is ideal — it provides even pressure and retains heat, acting as a secondary cooking surface from above
Not pressing hard enough — the bird humps in the middle and the breast lifts away from the heat Grill too hot for the entire cook — start hot for the crust, then move to a cooler zone to finish Forgetting the weight — without it, the edges curl and only the centre of the breast contacts the grill Not drying the skin — wet skin steams under the weight instead of crisping Rushing — even flattened, a 1.5kg chicken needs 20-25 minutes; resist the temptation to increase heat
Escoffier, Le Guide Culinaire; Larousse Gastronomique