Marche — crescia al formaggio is a pan-Marchigiani Easter preparation; the specific black pepper and Pecorino combination varies by province (Pesaro uses more Pecorino; Ancona uses more pepper). The preparation is inseparable from the Easter morning ritual.
Crescia al formaggio (not to be confused with crescia sfogliata, the piadina-like flatbread) is the Marchigiani Easter cheese bread — a tall, round, leavened bread enriched with eggs, olive oil, and Pecorino cheese, similar in concept to the Umbrian torta di Pasqua al formaggio but distinctly different in the Marchigiani execution: higher Pecorino ratio, addition of black pepper (generous), and sometimes a small amount of cracked black olives added to the dough. It rises in the oven spectacularly and is traditionally blessed on Holy Saturday morning.
Crescia al formaggio sliced reveals a slightly yellow-golden crumb studded with the grains of black pepper, fragrant with Pecorino. The bread is dense but not heavy — the enriched crumb is tender and yielding. The pepper is assertive and warming; the Pecorino tang is present in every bite. On Easter morning with cured meats, it is the taste of the Marchigiani spring.
The dough: 500g 00 flour, 20g fresh yeast (or 7g instant), 5 eggs, 100ml olive oil, 150g grated Pecorino (and 50g grated Parmigiano), generous black pepper, salt. Dissolve yeast in warm water with a pinch of sugar; allow to foam. Combine flour, beaten eggs, olive oil, yeast, and cheeses. Knead 10-15 minutes to a soft, enriched dough. First rise 2 hours. Knock back; shape into a ball; place in a tall well-oiled cylindrical tin (filling to 1/3 only). Second rise until the dough reaches the top of the tin (2-3 hours). Bake at 180°C for 40-45 minutes until deep golden and hollow when tapped.
The crescia al formaggio improves for 2-3 days after baking — the enriched crumb matures and the cheese flavour deepens. It keeps well wrapped for up to a week. The Marchigiani version traditionally includes more black pepper than the Umbrian version and is denser in character. Eaten with lonzino marchigiano (local pork loin), it is the classic Marchigiani Easter morning combination.
Under-proofing the second rise — the bread must reach the rim of the tin before baking; cutting short the rise produces a dense, poorly risen loaf. Too little black pepper — the pepper should be assertively present, not a background note; 1 teaspoon of cracked black pepper for the above quantities is correct. Not using a tall tin — the characteristic tall cylindrical shape requires a dedicated tin.
Anna Gosetti della Salda, Le Ricette Regionali Italiane; Slow Food Editore, Marche in Cucina