Urbino and the Marche interior — the testo (griddle) tradition predates wood-fired ovens in the region and represents the oldest bread-making technology of the Apennine area. The sfogliata (layered) version is the refined urban preparation of Urbino; simpler crescia (unlayered flatbread) is found throughout the region.
Crescia sfogliata (also called fogliata or crescia di Urbino) is the defining street bread of the Urbino area: a layered, flaky flatbread made by rolling an enriched dough (eggs, lard, black pepper), spreading it with lard, folding multiple times (like a rough lamination), and cooking on a testo — a terracotta or iron griddle. The result is a flatbread with a flaky, layered interior and a slightly charred, blistered exterior, eaten hot off the testo with prosciutto, lonza (cured pork loin), or salami. The lard lamination gives crescia sfogliata an almost pastry-like interior — each layer visible when the bread is torn.
Hot from the testo, crescia sfogliata blisters and chars at its edges while remaining soft and layered inside — the black pepper and lard fat create an intense, satisfying flavour that is simultaneously simple and complex. With a slice of lonza draped over and the fat from the cured meat melting into the warm layers, it is the perfect combination of bread and cured meat.
The dough: 500g flour, 3 eggs, 100g lard or strutto, black pepper (generous — crescia should taste of pepper), salt, and enough water to form a soft but workable dough. Knead well, rest 30 minutes. Roll out to a thin sheet (3-4mm). Spread generously with soft lard. Fold in thirds (like a letter), roll out again, fold again — repeat 3-4 times. This creates the lamination. Cut into rounds or ovals (15-20cm). Cook on a very hot testo or cast-iron griddle (no oil needed) for 3-4 minutes per side until blistered and charred in spots. The interior should be soft and layered; the exterior firm and slightly charred.
The testo is traditionally a terracotta disc, pre-heated directly on the fire or gas burner until extremely hot (a drop of water sizzles and evaporates instantly). A cast-iron griddle or skillet heated on maximum gas is the closest domestic equivalent. Crescia sfogliata is the vehicle for the Marche's extraordinary prosciutto and lonza — the bread and the cured meat are inseparable.
Insufficient pepper — crescia should taste strongly of pepper; a pinch is insufficient. Cold lard — soft lard spreads more evenly and creates better lamination. Cooking at too-low heat — the testo must be very hot; low heat dries the crescia rather than blistering it. Not eating immediately — the flaky layers lose their character as the bread cools.
Carol Field, The Italian Baker; Slow Food Editore, Marche in Cucina