Basilicata — the shepherd country of the Apennines and the Pollino mountains. Cutturidd is the transhumant shepherd's preparation — the lamb braised slowly in the clay pot over the fire on the mountain pasture, with whatever herbs grew around the camp.
Cutturidd (sometimes written cotturiello) is the defining lamb preparation of the Basilicatan shepherd tradition: pieces of young lamb (or older mutton in the traditional version) braised slowly in a clay pot with wild herbs — oregano, bay, rosemary — and white wine, without tomato (predating the tomato's widespread adoption in southern Italian cooking) or strong spicing. The technique is minimal: the herbs and the quality of the lamb are everything. The result is a pale-golden stew with a clear, herb-scented broth and tender, falling-from-the-bone lamb. It is the antithesis of the strongly spiced preparations of Calabria — Basilicata's cooking is quieter, more reliant on ingredient quality.
Cutturidd is the opposite of Calabrian cooking — it is quiet, herb-scented, pale, and relies entirely on the quality of the lamb. The broth is slightly unctuous from the lamb's gelatin; the herbs are present but restrained; the wine adds acidity and depth without dominating. It is the most honest lamb preparation in southern Italy.
Young lamb, cut into pieces on the bone. Brown lightly in olive oil or lard in a clay pot (or heavy casserole) — just enough to colour, not to deeply Maillard. Add enough dry white wine to half-submerge the lamb. Add whole cloves of garlic (unpeeled), fresh rosemary, bay leaves, and dried oregano. No tomato. Braise over very low heat, covered, for 1.5-2 hours until the lamb is falling tender. The broth should be pale golden and herb-scented, with a slight unctuousness from the lamb's gelatin. Season with salt at the end. Serve in the clay pot with rough country bread.
The clay pot (tiella di terracotta) is traditional and produces the most even heat distribution — it also retains heat well at the table, keeping the stew warm for service. The correct lamb is between 4-8 months old — young enough to be tender without pre-marinating, old enough to have some flavour. The bread for dipping is as important as the lamb itself — the herb-scented broth is one of the best things to soak bread in.
Adding tomato — cutturidd is specifically without tomato; it is a pre-tomato preparation. Over-browning the lamb — the dish should remain pale; deep searing changes the flavour character. Cooking at too-high heat — a bare simmer produces the clear, delicate broth; boiling makes the broth cloudy and the lamb tough. Using commercial dry white wine — a plain, neutral white is correct; an assertive white overwhelms the lamb.
Slow Food Editore, Basilicata in Cucina; Elizabeth David, Italian Food