Molise — the San Martino pastry tradition of November is pan-Apennine; the Molisani versions of mostaccioli and calzoni dolci are specific to the local sapa and walnut traditions. The preparation reflects the ancient agricultural calendar: November 11 was the date when new wine was traditionally tasted and celebrated.
San Martino (November 11) is the feast day of the new wine — the moment when the fermented grape must of the autumn harvest becomes wine, and the countryside of Molise and the central Apennines celebrates with a series of preparations made from the new must (mosto) or from sapa (the cooked, concentrated grape must). The Molisani San Martino pastries include: mostaccioli (diamond-shaped spiced biscuits made with cooked grape must, flour, and spices); miele di fichi (fig and grape syrup confections); and calzoni dolci (fried pastry half-moons filled with a mixture of grape jam and walnuts). These preparations are made only in November and mark the agricultural year's transition.
Mostaccioli molisani are dense, chewy, and intensely aromatic — the cooked grape must gives a deep, raisin-dark sweetness; the spices (cinnamon, clove, coriander) provide a medieval warmth; the crust is hard but the interior yields slightly. They keep for weeks. With the new Molisani Tintilia del Molise wine they were made to celebrate, they are the taste of November in the Apennine.
For mostaccioli molisani: combine 300g sapa (or concentrated grape juice reduced to a syrup), 300g 00 flour, 1 teaspoon each of cinnamon, cloves (ground), coriander, black pepper, orange zest, and a pinch of ammonium bicarbonate (or baking powder). Mix to a firm dough. Roll 1cm thick; cut into diamond shapes. Bake at 170°C for 20-25 minutes until firm but not brown (they harden on cooling). Coat with warmed chocolate (optional in some versions) or leave plain. For calzoni dolci: make a wine-enriched pastry (flour, lard, white wine, sugar, salt) rolled thin; fill with a mixture of grape jam (mostarda d'uva), chopped walnuts, and cinnamon; seal; fry in lard at 175°C until golden.
Sapa (or saba, vino cotto) is available from central Italian producers online — it is grape must cooked down to a thick, sweet-tart syrup with a complexity no other sweetener can match. The spice mixture in mostaccioli molisani reflects the medieval spice tradition of the Apennine interior — these are almost identical to the Calabrian mostaccioli and the Neapolitan mostacciuoli, reflecting a shared ancient preparation.
Mostaccioli too thin — they should be substantial (1cm thick minimum); thin mostaccioli are too crunchy and lose the spiced character. Not using genuine sapa — commercial grape juice reduced to a similar consistency at home is acceptable; commercial molasses is a poor substitute. Over-frying the calzoni dolci — golden and light is the target; dark brown pastry is overcooked.
Anna Gosetti della Salda, Le Ricette Regionali Italiane; Slow Food Editore, Molise in Cucina