Dongbei region — Heilongjiang, Jilin, Liaoning
Classic Northeastern Chinese stir-fry of three summer vegetables — aubergine (eggplant), potato, and green pepper — each deep-fried separately before combining in a garlic-soy sauce. The name means 'three fresh things from the earth'. Despite its humble ingredients, the preparation is labour-intensive and requires excellent technique.
Savoury-sweet-garlicky with contrasting textures: crisp potato, silky aubergine, fresh pepper — satisfying and unpretentious
{"Each vegetable fried separately to correct doneness — potato crisp, aubergine silky, pepper briefly cooked","Aubergine must be salted and squeezed before frying to prevent excessive oil absorption","Sauce: garlic, soy sauce, oyster sauce, a little sugar and vinegar — poured over combined vegetables","Do not over-stir after combining — preserve the distinct identity of each vegetable"}
{"Potato cut into wedges, not cubes — texture contrast with the silky aubergine is key","Lee Kum Kee Panda Oyster Sauce adds characteristic glossy sweetness to the sauce","A classic order at any Dongbei or northern Chinese restaurant — reliable quality indicator"}
{"Frying all three vegetables together — they cook at completely different rates","Not salting aubergine — soaks up enormous oil quantities without this step","Over-cooking green pepper until it loses its fresh flavour"}
Every Grain of Rice — Fuchsia Dunlop