Galicia, Spain
Galicia's defining savory pie — a double-crust dough encasing a filling of onion and pepper sofrito with tuna, bacalao, or sardines. The dough is enriched with the same olive oil used to cook the sofrito, which connects the crust to the filling flavour. Empanada gallega is sold whole in every market, feira, and café in Galicia; it is the portable, democratic food of the pilgrimage road. The name comes from empanar — to enclose in bread. The dough is neither shortcrust nor puff but something between: tender, slightly flaky, with enough body to enclose a wet filling without becoming soggy.
The filling must be cooled completely before going into the pastry — hot filling prevents the dough from setting correctly. Cook the sofrito long and slow (40+ minutes) until completely soft and slightly caramelised. Drain the filling of excess oil before encasing. The dough is sealed with crimping (repulgue) and pierced to vent steam. Brush with egg wash and bake at 200°C for 30-35 minutes until golden.
Empanada de zorza (chorizo and paprika filling) and empanada de bacalao con pasas (bacalao with raisins and pine nuts) are two of the definitive Galician fillings. The empanada improves at room temperature after 30 minutes of cooling — the filling firms and the pastry stabilises. Serve as a tapa or a main with Ribeiro white wine.
Hot filling in the pastry — causes sogginess. Under-cooking the sofrito — a raw-tasting onion filling undermines the whole pie. Sealing the pastry badly — filling leaks and the base becomes wet. Not piercing the top — steam builds and separates the layers.
The Food of Spain by Claudia Roden