Florence and Tuscany generally — fagioli all'uccelletto is documented in Florentine cooking from the 16th century. The Tuscans are called 'mangiafagioli' (bean-eaters) by other Italians — the bean is the most characteristically Tuscan ingredient.
Fagioli all'uccelletto (beans in the style of small birds — prepared the same way game birds were once served) is the definitive cooked bean preparation of Tuscany: dried cannellini beans cooked until tender, then finished in a pan with olive oil, garlic, sage, and a small amount of tomato (whole peeled San Marzano or a splash of passata). The result is neither a soup nor a stew — the beans are coated in a film of tomato-and-sage-infused olive oil but retain their integrity. It is served as a contorno alongside grilled sausages, bistecca, or arista, and also as a standalone primo. It is the definitive example of the Tuscan gift for transforming a humble ingredient into something of great dignity.
Fagioli all'uccelletto has the simplicity of a great principle: the bean's natural sweetness and starchiness, coated in sage-and-garlic-infused olive oil, brightened by a small amount of tomato acidity, seasoned with salt. Each bean is flavourful in itself. The dish tastes of nothing other than itself — and that is its virtue.
Soak dried cannellini overnight. Cook in plain water (unsalted, with a sage leaf and a drizzle of olive oil) until completely tender — 1.5-2 hours. Drain, reserving the cooking liquid. In a wide pan, warm generous olive oil. Add whole garlic cloves (not minced — the whole cloves soften and provide garlic flavour without sharpness) and fresh sage leaves. When the garlic is golden, add the drained beans. Add a small amount of whole peeled tomatoes (2-3 per person), crushed by hand. Season with salt and black pepper. Cook together over medium heat for 15-20 minutes, adding a little bean cooking liquid if needed, until the beans have absorbed the tomato and oil. The final consistency should be beans coated in a glossy film, not beans in sauce.
The bean cooking water (the 'liquore') has significant flavour — use it to adjust consistency and add depth. The sage must be fresh — dried sage has a different aromatic character. Fagioli all'uccelletto improves significantly on reheating — the beans absorb the tomato oil during cooling and the second heating integrates everything.
Using canned beans — they lack the flavour developed during the slow cooking of dried beans. Adding too much tomato — fagioli all'uccelletto is not a tomato sauce for beans; the tomato is a seasoning element, not the sauce. Over-cooking the garlic — golden is correct; brown produces a bitter note.
Marcella Hazan, Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking; Giorgio Locatelli, Made in Italy