Rome, Lazio
Rome's bean and pork rind soup — dried cannellini beans slow-cooked with softened pork rinds (cotiche), celery, tomato, and chilli in a rich, gelatinous broth. The cotiche are prepared separately: boiled, scraped, and rolled up before being added to the beans — they release collagen into the cooking liquid, creating a naturally thickened broth. A quintessential Roman cucina povera preparation, served throughout winter in trattorie as a primo. The beans should be completely tender but not falling apart; the cotiche should be soft, sticky, and gelatinous.
Cannellini bean earthiness; gelatinous pork rind richness; tomato acidity; chilli heat; deeply sustaining Roman winter dish
{"Pork rinds (cotiche): boil 30 min, scrape thoroughly to remove hairs, then roll up and tie with string — the rolling maintains shape during the long bean braise","Soak dried cannellini overnight; cook in fresh water with garlic and sage 45 min before adding to the main preparation","Build the base: soffritto, fresh or tinned tomato, chilli, then add semi-cooked beans and their liquid","Add the rolled and tied cotiche — they simmer with the beans for a further 45 min releasing collagen","Remove string and unroll cotiche at service — slice into rounds and place on top of the bean soup"}
{"The cooking liquid from the cotiche boiling is very gelatinous when cooled — excellent as a stock for other soups","A Parmesan rind simmered with the beans adds extraordinary depth","Serve with thick slices of toasted pane casareccio rubbed with garlic — the bread must absorb the gelatinous broth","The dish is better the next day — the gelatin from the cotiche fully sets overnight and reheating creates an even thicker, more unified soup"}
{"Not boiling and scraping the cotiche — unscraped rinds have an unpleasant texture and flavour","Using canned beans — the starchy cooking liquid from dried beans is the broth; canned beans have no cooking liquid","Short cooking — the beans and cotiche need combined cooking of 45+ min for the collagen to fully transfer and beans to be tender","Thin broth — if the cotiche are properly cooked, the broth should be thick and body-rich from the gelatin; reduce if too thin"}
La Cucina Romana — Livio Jannattoni