Piedmont
Cold sliced veal covered in a creamy tuna-anchovy-caper mayonnaise — one of the great Piedmontese antipasti. The veal (fesa, from the rump) is poached very gently in aromatic court-bouillon until just cooked through, then sliced thin and covered in a sauce of tuna, anchovy, capers and mayonnaise. The combination of cold, delicate veal and rich, umami-laden tuna sauce is the defining flavour of the Piedmontese summer table.
Delicate cold veal under a rich, briny, umami-laden tuna sauce; capers add acidity; anchovy gives depth without fishiness; the marriage of meat and fish is one of Italy's most seductive flavour combinations
{"Poach the veal at 70–75°C maximum — higher temperature makes the meat tough and dry; the internal temp must reach only 65°C","Cool the veal completely in its poaching liquid — this keeps it moist and gives it additional flavour","The tonnata sauce: tuna, anchovy, capers and mayonnaise processed until completely smooth — it must coat without running","Slice very thin (2–3mm) against the grain — the thinness is essential for the correct texture under the thick sauce","Coat and refrigerate overnight before serving — the sauce must have time to penetrate the veal and for the flavours to merge"}
{"The court-bouillon from poaching the veal can be strained and frozen — it is an excellent base for risotto","Oil-packed Italian tuna in the sauce (not brine-packed) gives a richer, cleaner flavour","A final scattering of whole small capers and a drizzle of good olive oil over the plated vitello tonnato refreshes the presentation"}
{"Overcooked veal — the meat must remain pale and tender; grey, fully-cooked veal is a common error","Sauce too thin — it must be a coating sauce, not a liquid; adjust mayonnaise quantity to achieve correct consistency","Serving immediately — the overnight rest is non-negotiable for the flavours to integrate"}
La Cucina Piemontese — Ricette della Grande Tradizione