Aubergine fried until silky and yielding, dressed in the yu xiang ('fish-fragrant') sauce of doubanjiang, garlic, ginger, spring onion, Chinkiang vinegar, sugar, and soy sauce — with no fish in sight. The name refers to the seasoning profile historically used for fish dishes in Sichuan — the same sweet-sour-hot-savoury combination was applied to the aubergine and the name stuck. Yu xiang aubergine is one of the most commonly cooked preparations in the Chinese home kitchen and one of the most demanding to execute correctly: the aubergine must be cooked to exactly the right silky, yielding, almost collapsing texture without becoming waterlogged.
**The aubergine:** Slender Chinese or Japanese aubergines (2–3cm diameter) rather than the large purple globe variety. Their thinner skin, more delicate flesh, and lower seed content produce a more refined result. Cut into batons: 6cm × 1.5cm. **Removing excess moisture:** Salt the aubergine batons lightly and rest for 20–30 minutes — the salt draws moisture from the cells through osmosis. Press gently with paper towels. This step reduces the oil absorbed during frying (aubergine is one of the most oil-absorbent vegetables) and concentrates the aubergine flavour. **The cooking method — two approaches:** **Deep-frying (restaurant method):** Fry the aubergine batons at 180°C for 2–3 minutes until the flesh is fully soft and the exterior is a pale gold. Drain. The aubergine is completely cooked before entering the wok with the sauce. This method produces the smoothest, most evenly silky texture. **Dry-fry and steam (home method):** Heat a wok with 3–4 tablespoons of oil. Fry the aubergine on medium heat, turning occasionally, until fully soft — 8–10 minutes. The aubergine drinks the oil initially, then releases it as the cells collapse and soften. **The yu xiang sauce (Entry FD-32 reference):** 1. Wok at medium heat. Add remaining oil. 2. Fry doubanjiang 2–3 minutes (Entry FD-04 technique). 3. Add garlic and ginger. 30 seconds. 4. Add the pre-cooked aubergine. Toss to coat with the paste. 5. Add Shaoxing wine, light soy sauce, sugar, Chinkiang vinegar. 6. Add spring onion. 7. Cornstarch slurry: a small amount, to produce a light glaze. 8. Toss and serve immediately. Decisive moment: The aubergine's texture before the sauce is added. The aubergine must be completely, fully soft — yielding with no resistance when pressed — before the sauce stage. Under-cooked aubergine that enters the sauce stage will never fully soften in the brief sauce tossing time, producing a preparation with uneven texture: some pieces silky, others slightly firm. Sensory tests: **Feel — the pre-sauce aubergine:** Press a baton between the fingers. Correctly cooked aubergine should feel like soft butter — it yields completely with minimal pressure. The skin should be tender and the flesh collapsed but intact. **Taste:** Yu xiang aubergine should deliver simultaneously: the aubergine's sweet, mild depth; the doubanjiang's fermented savouriness; the garlic and ginger's aromatic brightness; the sweet-sour of the vinegar-sugar balance; and a background heat from the chilli. All five elements should be perceptible in each mouthful.
Fuchsia Dunlop, *Land of Plenty* (2001); *Every Grain of Rice* (2012); *Land of Fish and Rice* (2016); *The Food of Sichuan* (2019)