National Mexican tradition — every region has a version; regional differences are in bean type and fat used
Refried beans (frijoles refritos — re-fried, not twice-fried) are cooked beans mashed and fried in lard or oil in a heavy pan until they form a smooth, creamy paste that pulls from the pan edges. The frying is the key step — it transforms the starchy, watery bean into a concentrated, savoury, spreadable paste. Pinto beans are most common (and the US standard), but black beans (southern Mexico and Central America) and peruano beans (central Mexico) are also widely used. Each produces a different colour and flavour.
Rich, earthy, savoury — the simplest preparation that reveals bean quality most directly
{"Lard produces the best flavour — the interaction of bean starches and rendered pork fat is distinctive","The beans must be very soft before frying — firm beans will not mash smoothly","Fry in hot fat, add beans, mash progressively as they heat — the heat aids the mashing","The paste pulls from the pan edges when correctly reduced — this is the doneness indicator","Bean broth is used to thin if needed — not water or stock"}
{"For smooth refritos: use a potato masher in the pan during frying — avoid the blender","The classic test: drag a spoon through the refritos and lift — they should hold the line briefly before flowing back","Add a small amount of onion sautéed in lard before the beans for additional depth","Refritos freeze well — portion into logs in plastic wrap, freeze, slice as needed"}
{"Using oil instead of lard — vegetable oil produces flat, less savoury refritos","Under-cooking the beans before mashing — firm beans stay lumpy","Insufficient frying — watery, uncooked-tasting refritos","Using a blender instead of the pan mash — produces a mousse-like texture, not refritos"}
The Art of Mexican Cooking — Diana Kennedy; Mexico: The Cookbook — Margarita Carrillo Arronte