Calabria — frittule are the pig-slaughter day preparation throughout the region. The maialatura (pig slaughter) in Calabrian tradition takes place in January-February, and frittule are prepared and eaten on the day of the slaughter — nothing preserves; everything is immediate.
Frittule (also called rosolature or fritture di maiale) are the Calabrian version of the pig-slaughter feast preparation: pork belly, pork fat, and miscellaneous trimmings from the maialatura (pig slaughter) slow-rendered in lard in a large iron pot until the meat is completely tender and the fat has been extracted, then the temperature is raised and the meat pieces fry in their own rendered fat until golden and slightly crisp. The resulting small pieces of golden fried pork are served on rough paper immediately — the only seasoning is coarse salt and dried chilli. They are simultaneously the simplest and most satisfying thing made from a pig.
Frittule hot from the pot are the paradigm of simplicity: golden, slightly crisp on the outside, yielding within, fat-rich, salt-and-chilli seasoned. The flavour is pure rendered pork, Maillard-crisped — there is nothing more honest in Italian food. They are eaten communally, standing around the pot, with rough bread and coarse red wine.
Cut pork belly and fatty trimmings into 4-5cm pieces. Place in a wide, heavy pot with a small amount of lard and a splash of water. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, for 1.5-2 hours — the pork renders slowly, the water evaporates, and the pieces begin to fry in their own rendered fat. Once the rendered fat is clear and the water has evaporated, raise the heat to medium-high and allow the pork pieces to fry until golden and slightly crisp on the exterior — 15-20 minutes more. Remove with a slotted spoon. Season immediately with coarse salt and dried peperoncino flakes. Eat immediately.
The rendered lard left in the pot after frittule is gold — strain it while hot, season lightly, and store for cooking. The frittule tradition is identical in principle to Mexican carnitas and French rillons — the technique of confiting pork in its own fat, then raising the heat to crisp it, is universal. The skin pieces (cotenna) are the most prized in the frittule pot — they become golden and glass-crisp.
Starting at too-high heat — the water must evaporate before the frying begins; high heat causes spattering and uneven rendering. Not rendering long enough — the first stage (slow rendering) is essential for the fat to extract fully before the frying stage. Not eating immediately — frittule lose their crispness within minutes.
Slow Food Editore, Calabria in Cucina; Gillian Riley, The Oxford Companion to Italian Food