Molise — the fusillo shape is found throughout southern Italy but the Molisani claim the technique as central to their pasta identity. The hand-rolling on the ferro is the traditional domestic technique; the shape is now IGP-protected as 'Fusilli di Molise'.
Fusilli molisani are the hand-rolled pasta of Molise — made by rolling a small cylinder of pasta dough around a thin iron rod (il ferro, a knitting-needle-like implement) with a rapid rolling motion of the palm, then sliding the iron out to leave the characteristic helical shape. The technique requires practice: too much pressure tears the dough; too little and the helix doesn't form. Each fusillo is made individually. The traditional sauce is a long-cooked lamb ragù (ragù di agnello) with tomato, or simply tomato and basil in summer. The pasta shape is found across southern Italy (Campania, Calabria, Basilicata also make versions) but the Molisani call it their own.
Fusilli molisani have a textured, ridged surface from the rolling that catches ragù perfectly — each helix is a small vessel for sauce. With lamb ragù, the combination is the defining Molisani primo: the semolina pasta al dente, the ragù rich and slightly spiced with peperoncino, the sauce absorbed into every turn of the spiral.
Dough: semolina flour (semola rimacinata), water, salt — no egg. Knead 10 minutes to a smooth, elastic dough. Rest 30 minutes. Roll into thin cylinders the diameter of a thick spaghetto. Cut 6-7cm lengths. Place on the iron; apply the palm and roll forward with even pressure, pressing to adhere; slide back to release. The fusillo should have 3-4 turns. Cook in abundant salted water 6-8 minutes. Dress with ragù di agnello — slow-cooked lamb shoulder with tomato, onion, and peperoncino.
The iron can be a proper pasta ferro (available from Italian kitchen supply shops) or simply a thin metal skewer. The dough should be slightly stiffer than most pasta dough — a dry hand touch on the surface when properly rested. The lamb ragù benefits from a marrow bone cooked with it and removed at the end; the gelatin enriches the sauce.
Dough too wet — the fusillo won't release from the iron cleanly. Too thin cylinders — the helix is too delicate and breaks in cooking. Uneven pressure while rolling — one side adheres, the other doesn't, producing misshapen fusilli. Rolling too fast — takes practice; slow and even beats fast and uneven.
Oretta Zanini de Vita, Encyclopedia of Pasta; Slow Food Editore, Molise in Cucina