Garum was the defining condiment of ancient Roman cuisine — a fermented fish sauce produced in enormous quantities along the Mediterranean coast and traded across the empire. It disappeared from European cooking with the Roman collapse but survived in Asian fish sauce traditions (Vietnamese nuoc cham, Thai nam pla, Korean aekjeot). Noma's innovation was the enzymatic garum: using koji enzymes rather than bacterial fermentation to produce an accelerated, controlled version that can be made from virtually any protein source.
A liquid umami condiment produced by the enzymatic breakdown of proteins into amino acids and glutamates. Traditional garum uses salt and time; Noma's koji garum uses Aspergillus oryzae enzymes to accelerate the process. The result in both cases is an intensely savoury, complex liquid that functions as the deepest possible expression of a protein's flavour.
Garum is seasoning at the deepest level — a few drops in a sauce, braise, or dressing adds an umami foundation that reads as depth rather than as a distinct flavour. It should not taste of fish (if fish garum) or beef (if beef garum) — it should taste of concentrated savoury complexity that makes everything around it taste more like itself.
- Koji garum ratio: approximately equal weights of protein and koji, with salt at 15–20% of the combined weight to prevent putrefactive bacteria while allowing enzyme activity [VERIFY ratios] - Temperature for koji garum: 60°C maintained for 8–12 hours produces a rapid result; longer at lower temperatures develops more complexity [VERIFY] - The protein is fully broken down — there is no texture remaining, only liquid umami. This is the goal - Straining and pasteurisation after fermentation stabilises the garum for storage — unpasteurised garum continues to develop and must be refrigerated [VERIFY pasteurisation temperature] - Garum from different proteins produces categorically different flavours: beef garum is intensely meaty; mushroom garum is deeply earthy; shrimp garum is marine and sweet; grasshopper garum (Noma's most extreme application) is nutty and complex Decisive moment: The colour and aroma after the full fermentation period — properly made garum is a deep amber to brown liquid with an intensely savoury, complex aroma that is strong but not putrid. Off aromas (ammonia, rotten) indicate failed fermentation.
MAANGCHI KOREAN — Second Batch KR-26 through KR-40