Garum — the ancient Roman fish sauce, revived and radically extended by Noma — is made by combining a protein substrate (fish, meat, mushrooms, or insects) with a koji culture (or enzymes) at a warm temperature (50–60°C), allowing the enzymes to fully hydrolyse the proteins into their constituent amino acids. The result is a liquid of extraordinary umami concentration — a flavouring substance that adds depth without adding a perceptible separate flavour. Noma's contribution: extending the garum principle from fish to beef, chicken, pork, mushroom, and even vegetable substrates.
- **Koji (Aspergillus oryzae):** The enzyme source — koji produces proteases (which hydrolyse proteins), amylases (which convert starch to sugar), and lipases (which break down fats). Applied to the protein substrate, the proteases produce free amino acids (particularly glutamates and aspartates — the umami compounds). - **Temperature:** 50–60°C sustained throughout the fermentation. Too cold: enzyme activity slows. Too hot: enzymes denature. The temperature must be maintained precisely — this is not room-temperature fermentation. - **Salt:** 10–20% salt by weight of the protein substrate — enough to suppress pathogenic bacterial growth while allowing enzyme activity. - **Time:** 6–12 weeks for most substrates. [VERIFY] Noma's specific time ranges. - **The result:** A liquid of extreme umami concentration — 1 teaspoon added to a sauce is sufficient to transform its depth. **Beef garum:** - Beef scraps + koji rice + salt — the same principle but the beef's myosin proteins produce a different amino acid profile from fish (more inosinate, different glutamate ratios). - The result tastes intensely of beef — but in the way the best stock reduced to demi-glace tastes, without any raw or off notes. **Plant-based garum:** - Mushroom garum (using koji on mushrooms): the glutamate content of shiitake makes this the most umami-dense of the plant-based garums.
Noma Fermentation