Naples, Campania
Naples' potato cake — a thick round of mashed potato enriched with eggs, butter, Parmigiano, salame napoletano, and mozzarella, baked until golden. The name comes from the French 'gâteau' — introduced during the Bourbon court of Naples when French culinary terminology entered Neapolitan vocabulary. The filling of salami and mozzarella is layered into the centre of the potato so that slicing reveals the filling. A dish for using up excellent leftover mashed potatoes or an excellent preparation in its own right.
Rich enriched potato; salami savouriness; melted mozzarella pools; breadcrumb crust; deeply satisfying Neapolitan family dish
{"Potatoes boiled whole (unpeeled), then peeled and riced while hot — maximum dryness for the mash","Enrich with eggs, butter, Parmigiano, and a pinch of nutmeg — the mixture must be smooth and not lumpy","Layer in a buttered, breadcrumbed dish: half the potato, then the filling (sliced salami, mozzarella cubes), then remaining potato","Breadcrumb the top and bottom — they provide the golden crust that holds the cake together when sliced","Bake at 190°C 30–35 min until the top is deep golden — the crust is the structural element"}
{"The mozzarella inside should be squeezed and dried on paper towel — wet mozzarella steams and makes the inside soggy","Some Neapolitan families add cubed provola affumicata alongside the mozzarella for an extra smoky layer","Prosciutto cotto (cooked ham) is the Bourbon original; salame napoletano is the popular Neapolitan version","Slices of gattò pan-fried in olive oil the next day are excellent — the crust becomes doubly crisp"}
{"Wet mashed potato — excess moisture prevents the cake from setting firmly; rice while hot and do not add liquid","Cold mozzarella — the cheese must melt inside; allow mozzarella to come to room temperature before using","Under-browning — the golden crust is both flavour and structure; pale gattò collapses when cut","Thin layers — the potato portion on each side must be substantial; a thin layer can't support the filling without cracking"}
La Cucina Napoletana — Jeanne Caròla Francesconi