Gejang — Raw Soy-Marinated Crab (게장)

Coastal Korea; gejang appears in documents from the Three Kingdoms period. The ganjang gejang tradition is strongest in the southwestern coastal regions (Jeolla province) where blue crab populations are most abundant

Gejang (게장) is raw blue swimming crab marinated in either ganjang (간장게장, soy gejang) or gochugaru-yangnyeom (양념게장, spiced gejang), a tradition sometimes called 'rice thief' (밥도둑) for its appetite-stimulating power. The raw crab — specifically Portunus trituberculatus (blue swimming crab, 꽃게) — is not cooked but 'cold-processed' by the salt content of the marinade over 3–12 hours for yangnyeom gejang, or 3–7 days for soy gejang. The result is silky, almost liquid crab meat that slides from the shell and is eaten with rice. The crab roe (내장, naejang) in the shell is the prize: a creamy, intensely savoury paste.

• Parallels Chinese drunken crab (醉蟹, marinated in Shaoxing wine) and Singaporean/Malaysian raw marinated crab preparations — all raw crustacean preparations where marinating acts as the preservation and flavour mechanism

Ganjang gejang served at room temperature (the roe semi-softened) with hot steamed rice is one of the most intensely satisfying Korean meals. The soy's salt draws moisture from the crab, which dilutes into the marinade, which you then pour over rice — the dish continuously replenishes itself.