Gnocchi à la parisienne are a distinctly French creation — small dumplings made from choux pastry (pâte à choux) rather than the potato-based Italian gnocchi, poached in simmering water until they float, then gratinéed under sauce Mornay with Gruyère until bubbling and golden. The choux base gives them a lighter, more delicate texture than potato gnocchi — pillowy and almost soufflé-like, with a delicate egg richness that absorbs sauce beautifully. Prepare a pâte à choux: bring 250ml of water, 100g of butter, and a pinch of salt to a rolling boil. Remove from heat, add 150g of flour all at once, and beat vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture forms a smooth ball that pulls cleanly from the sides of the pan. Return to medium heat and stir for 2-3 minutes to dry the paste — a thin film forming on the bottom of the pan indicates sufficient drying. Transfer to a bowl and beat in 4 eggs, one at a time, incorporating each fully before adding the next. The paste should be smooth, glossy, and hold a soft peak when lifted on the spoon. Beat in 80g of finely grated Gruyère for flavour. Bring a wide pot of salted water to a gentle simmer (not a rolling boil, which tears the gnocchi apart). Using two teaspoons dipped in hot water, shape quenelle-sized portions and drop them into the simmering water. Work in batches of 8-10 to avoid overcrowding. The gnocchi will sink, then float to the surface after 3-4 minutes — continue cooking for 2 minutes after they float. Lift with a slotted spoon and drain on a clean cloth. Arrange the poached gnocchi in a single layer in a buttered gratin dish. Nappé generously with sauce Mornay (béchamel enriched with Gruyère and egg yolks), scatter additional grated Gruyère over the top, and gratinée under a hot grill or in a 220°C oven for 10-12 minutes until the sauce bubbles fiercely and the top is spotted with deep golden-brown. Serve immediately — the gnocchi beneath the bubbling sauce should be light and tender, having absorbed some of the sauce's richness while retaining their delicate, choux-based airiness.
Choux paste base (not potato) — distinctly French technique. Paste must be dried on heat before adding eggs. Gentle simmer for poaching — boiling tears gnocchi apart. Float + 2 minutes = cooked. Gratinée under Mornay sauce with Gruyère until bubbling.
A piping bag with a large round tip produces more uniform gnocchi — pipe directly over the water and cut 2cm lengths with a wet knife. The poached gnocchi can be prepared hours ahead and held in buttered gratin dishes, ready for saucing and gratinéeing. For gnocchi à la romaine (the semolina version), use semolina boiled in milk, spread on a sheet, cut into rounds, and gratinéed — equally classical but different technique. Adding a tablespoon of Dijon mustard to the Mornay creates a more complex, slightly sharp sauce. Individual gratin dishes provide better sauce-to-gnocchi ratio than one large dish.
Under-drying the choux paste, producing heavy, dense gnocchi. Adding eggs all at once instead of one at a time, preventing proper incorporation. Boiling vigorously during poaching, which tears the delicate dumplings. Overcrowding the poaching water, causing gnocchi to stick together. Under-saucing the gratin — the gnocchi need to be generously coated.
Le Guide Culinaire — Auguste Escoffier