Japan — sesame was introduced to Japan from China during the Nara period (8th century) as both a food and a medicinal plant. The sesame cultivation tradition is ancient in both China and India; the Japanese adopted sesame from Chinese culinary and Buddhist traditions. Goma-dofu as a temple preparation dates to the Kamakura period when it was developed in Koyasan's vegetarian cooking tradition.
Goma (胡麻, sesame, Sesamum indicum) is one of Japanese cuisine's most versatile flavour agents — appearing across the cuisine from morning to evening, from the sesame oil in kenchinjiru's foundation to the sesame in furikake scattered over breakfast rice to the goma-dare (sesame sauce) for shabu-shabu. Japanese cooking distinguishes between: shiro-goma (白ごま, white sesame) — the standard, mildly nutty variety used for garnishing and in goma-dare; kuro-goma (黒ごま, black sesame) — richer, more assertive flavour used in confectionery and as a visual contrast element; iri-goma (炒りごま, toasted sesame) — roasted until fragrant for maximum flavour; neri-goma (練りごま, sesame paste, like tahini but made from roasted sesame) — the base for goma-dare and some wagashi; goma-abura (胡麻油, sesame oil) — light roasted sesame oil for stir-frying and finishing.
Sesame's flavour in Japanese cooking ranges from the subtle background (a light scatter of toasted white goma over spinach ohitashi) to the dominant foreground (goma-dare over shabu-shabu beef, where the sesame richness is the meal's primary flavour experience). The character of sesame is its nuttiness — a roasted, complex, slightly sweet nuttiness that deepens with heat. In goma-dofu, the sesame's full, rounded richness is the entire flavour of the preparation; in ohitashi, it provides a nutty accent to the spinach's iron-rich vegetal character.
Toasting sesame: dry pan over medium heat, stirring constantly until the seeds are fragrant and just beginning to colour (white sesame turns pale gold, black sesame develops a deeper sheen). Remove immediately from heat — sesame continues to cook from pan heat after removal. Grinding: suribachi (擂り鉢, Japanese ceramic mortar with ridged interior) + surikogi (wooden pestle) is the traditional tool for partially grinding sesame to release the oils while retaining some texture. Goma-dare (sesame sauce): neri-goma + dashi + soy + mirin + rice vinegar + a touch of sugar + hot water to adjust consistency. The balance between sesame richness and dashi clarity determines the sauce's register.
Goma-dofu (胡麻豆腐) — the Zen temple preparation of sesame purée set with kuzu starch (similar to silken tofu in texture, made entirely from sesame and starch with no soy) — is the highest expression of sesame in Japanese cooking. The best goma-dofu uses kuzu (arrowroot) rather than starch, which produces a more refined, slightly translucent result. Served cold with wasabi and soy, the sesame richness and the kuzu's faint vegetable sweetness create a complex preparation from minimal ingredients.
Using stale sesame seeds — sesame oil goes rancid rapidly; freshly purchased and stored sesame (cool, dark, airtight) for maximum flavour. Not toasting before use — untoasted sesame lacks flavour complexity. Over-grinding — sesame should be partially crushed (half the seeds whole, half broken) for optimal textural interest; over-grinding to a smooth paste changes the character.
Washoku — Elizabeth Andoh; Japanese Farm Food — Nancy Singleton Hachisu