Gratin de Courgettes — Courgette Gratin with Herbs and Rice

Gratin de courgettes is a summer gratin of the Midi — courgettes grated, salted, squeezed dry, mixed with rice, herbs, eggs, and cheese, then baked in a shallow dish until set and golden on top with a creamy, savoury interior. This is not a Mornay-sauced gratin in the northern tradition but a Provençal one, where the vegetables themselves form the body of the dish, bound by egg rather than béchamel, seasoned with the herbs of the garrigue rather than nutmeg. The technique hinges on one critical step: removing moisture from the courgettes. Grate 1kg of courgettes on the coarse holes of a box grater, toss with 2 teaspoons of salt, and leave in a colander for 30 minutes. The salt draws out extraordinary quantities of water — squeeze the grated courgette in handfuls, wringing out as much liquid as possible. This step is non-negotiable: wet courgette produces a watery, unset gratin. In a bowl, combine the squeezed courgette with 150g of cooked rice (leftover pilaf is ideal), 3 beaten eggs, 80g of grated Gruyère, 2 tablespoons of olive oil, 2 cloves of minced garlic, and a generous handful of chopped fresh herbs — parsley, basil, marjoram, and thyme in whatever proportion the garden provides. Season with pepper (the salt from the draining step is usually sufficient). Pour into a well-oiled gratin dish and spread evenly. Top with additional grated cheese, a drizzle of olive oil, and fresh breadcrumbs. Bake at 180°C for 35-40 minutes until the top is deeply golden and crisp, the edges are pulling away slightly from the dish, and the centre is set but still slightly tremulous when tapped. Rest 10 minutes before serving. This gratin is equally good warm and at room temperature — it often appears on the Provençal table as part of a spread of salads, olives, and cold meats, an everyday dish that tastes of summer at its peak.

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