Lazio and Abruzzo — guanciale production is most associated with the Amatrice-Leonessa zone of the Lazio-Abruzzo border, where it is made as a product of the autumn pig slaughter. It is also produced throughout Umbria and Marche. The connection to the four Roman pasta sauces makes it a product of national importance.
Guanciale (from 'guancia' — cheek) is the cured pig's jowl that is foundational to Roman cooking — the fat used in amatriciana, carbonara, cacio e pepe's richer version, and gricia. Unlike pancetta (cured belly), guanciale has a higher ratio of fat to lean, a distinctive layered fat structure, and a specific flavour from the jaw muscle and its surrounding fat deposits — slightly more assertive, slightly more aromatic than belly fat. The Lazio and Abruzzo guanciale is seasoned with black pepper, red chilli, and sometimes rosemary before curing; it is not smoked. The fat, rendered in a dry pan without added oil, forms the cooking fat for the four classical Roman pasta sauces.
Guanciale rendered in a pan produces an extraordinary aromatic — the spices on the surface caramelise and flavour the rendered fat; the lean strips become golden and slightly chewy. The fat itself, when tasted, is clean and slightly aromatic from the pepper and chilli. In amatriciana, it is the flavour foundation; in carbonara, it provides the fat that emulsifies with egg and Pecorino. Nothing adequately replaces it.
Production: pig's cheek trimmed of excess meat; rubbed with fine sea salt, black pepper, cracked chilli, and optionally rosemary. Cured for 10-14 days at cold temperature, turning daily, the salt drawing moisture out and the seasonings penetrating. Hung in a cool, ventilated space to air-dry for 30-60 days. The fat should feel firm; the spice crust should be dry. For cooking: cut guanciale into lardons or strips; place in a cold, dry non-stick pan; render over medium heat until the fat is translucent and beginning to crisp. The rendered guanciale fat is then used as the cooking fat for the sauce — no olive oil needed.
Guanciale from the Amatrice and Leonessa areas of the Lazio-Abruzzo border is considered the reference standard. It is now widely available in the UK from Italian delis and online. The unrendered fat (which one does not eat) can be saved and used to grease a pan for eggs or potatoes — it flavours immediately. The black pepper on the surface of a good guanciale is an ingredient, not a coating — it should taste of pepper throughout.
Substituting pancetta for guanciale — the flavour profiles are different; pancetta is milder, less aromatic. Frying guanciale in oil — the guanciale provides its own fat; added oil dilutes the flavour and texture. Rendering at too high heat — the outside of the lardons becomes dark and crispy while the interior fat remains unrendered; medium heat throughout.
Giorgio Locatelli, Made in Italy; Anna Gosetti della Salda, Le Ricette Regionali Italiane