Guilin, Guangxi Province
Guilin's signature noodle soup is unlike any other Chinese noodle: the broth is a decades-old master stock of pork bones, dried mushrooms, spices, and dried herbs; the fresh rice noodles are served with a choice of toppings — braised pork, fried peanuts, pickled daikon, spring onion. The broth is the restaurant's identity — each shop guards its recipe like a state secret. Different from Vietnamese pho despite superficial similarity.
Rich, deeply savoury master stock against fresh clean rice noodles; the condiment table lets each diner adjust sour-spice-sesame balance; deeply satisfying and complex
{"Master broth: pork bones, dried mushrooms, star anise, cassia, dried tangerine peel, dried chillies; simmered minimum 8 hours","Fresh rice noodles from wet-ground rice — the specific texture of Guilin rice noodles is from the local water","Assembly: noodles blanched briefly, placed in bowl, topped with sliced braised pork, peanuts, pickled daikon, spring onion, dried chilli","The diner adds condiments at table: vinegar, chilli sauce, sesame oil"}
{"Many Guilin shops have been operating for generations — the accumulated master stock is the restaurant's most valuable asset","The pickled daikon (suan luo bo) topping is essential — its sour crunch is the refreshing counterpoint to the rich broth","Waxed pork (la rou) sautéed and placed on top is the most traditional topping"}
{"Using dried or packaged rice noodles — the fresh texture is completely different","Thin, diluted broth — Guilin rice noodle broth should be intensely savoury and deep amber","Wrong noodle thickness — Guilin mi fen is round and medium-thin (not flat rice noodles or vermicelli)"}
Land of Plenty — Fuchsia Dunlop; Chinese regional noodle sources