Tamil Nadu — present in every home from Chennai to Coimbatore; the idli-dosa accompaniment by which Tamil culinary identity is partly expressed
Milagai podi (literally 'chilli powder' in Tamil), colloquially called 'gunpowder' for its fiery intensity, is the dry spice condiment of Tamil Nadu — a coarsely ground blend of dried red chilli, urad dal, chana dal, sesame seeds, and curry leaves, dry-roasted separately and ground coarse. It is not a sauce but a dry powder, traditionally mixed with sesame oil or ghee at the table and spread on dosa or idli before eating. Every household has a personal recipe; the defining variables are the chilli variety (Guntur for heat, byadagi for colour), the proportion of sesame, and whether jaggery is included for sweetness.
Mixed with sesame oil or ghee and spread on dosa, idli, or roti. Can also be sprinkled dry over rice with ghee. A small quantity goes a long way.
{"Roast each component separately — each has a different browning point; mixing before roasting burns the sesame before the dal is ready","Roast urad and chana dal to light golden — too pale is raw-tasting; too dark is bitter","Grind coarse — the podi should have texture and crunch, not be a fine powder","Cool all components completely before grinding — warm ingredients steam in the grinder and produce paste rather than powder","Store in an airtight container — the volatile oils in the sesame and chilli are where the flavour lives"}
The addition of asafoetida (hing) roasted with the dals is the Brahmin tradition that gives podi its aromatic depth beyond the chilli-sesame. In Chettinad households, podi is made with the addition of roasted peppercorn — this produces a distinctive black-flecked podi with both the heat of chilli and the sharp warmth of pepper simultaneously.
{"Roasting all components together — chilli burns before dal is ready","Fine grinding — produces a smooth powder that lacks the characteristic coarse texture","Using old, pre-ground sesame — the oils have oxidised and the podi will taste flat"}