Haemul-pajeon — Seafood Scallion Pancake (해물파전)

Busan and the southern coastal regions of Korea, where fresh seafood is daily currency; elevated through pojangmacha (street stall) and soju culture into a national dish

Haemul-pajeon is Korea's most celebrated savoury pancake: the marriage of fresh seafood with grassy, sharp green onion (pa, 파) in a batter fried until shatteringly crisp at the edges. What separates haemul-pajeon from plain pajeon is the egg-pour finishing technique — a whisked egg streamed over the half-set pancake that laces across the seafood layer, setting to a golden, lacy surface in the residual fat. Beloved on rainy days because the sizzle of batter mimics rainfall, this is a dish where the quality of seafood is where it lives or dies. The pan must be very hot with enough oil to shallow-fry.

• Japanese okonomiyaki (egg-and-seafood pancake; though finished with Worcestershire and mayonnaise); Chinese cong you bing (scallion pancake, though unleavened flatbread rather than batter)

Served with cho-ganjang (soy-vinegar dipping sauce). The acid cuts through the rich egg and seafood. Makgeolli is the traditional pairing; its effervescence and sweetness create a complete table.