Southern China — Hakka regions of Guangdong, Fujian, Taiwan, Malaysia
Ancient Hakka health food of ground green tea leaves, herbs (basil, mint, perilla), peanuts, and sesame pounded in a mortar with water to form a fragrant green paste diluted into a broth, poured over rice with an array of blanched vegetables, tofu, and dried shrimp toppings. A complete meal in a bowl with extraordinary herbal complexity.
Intensely herbal-grassy from tea and fresh herbs; earthy peanut base; briny from dried shrimp; uniquely health-conscious Chinese flavour
{"Lei means to pound — the tea-herb paste is ground with a wooden pestle in a ribbed ceramic mortar (lei bo)","Paste ingredients: green tea leaves, fresh basil, mint, perilla, parsley, peanuts, sesame, salt","Broth consistency: dilute paste with hot water to desired thickness","Toppings laid around rice, broth poured over to combine"}
{"Traditional pounding takes 20–30 minutes; food processor works but loses some texture","Toppings rotation: salted radish, pickled mustard greens, long beans, tofu, dried shrimp, fried shallots","The dish is associated with Hakka medicinal food philosophy — said to cure colds"}
{"Using tea bags instead of whole tea leaves — inferior flavour and no depth","Making paste too watery — should be substantial and creamy","Skipping variety of toppings — the array of textures and flavours is the point"}
All Under Heaven — Carolyn Phillips; Hakka Soul — Carolyn Phillips