Japan — tofu serving tradition from at least the Edo period; hiyayakko as a cold summer preparation documented in Edo period food records; the simplicity of the preparation makes it essentially timeless across Japanese culinary history
Hiyayakko (冷奴, cold tofu) is the simplest and most honest expression of Japanese ingredient quality — a block of chilled silken tofu (kinugoshi) served with nothing more than a few drops of soy sauce and a selection of fresh condiments. The dish has no cooking — its entire quality rests on the tofu's freshness and the condiments' character. Traditional condiments: katsuobushi (bonito flakes, the essential aromatic), grated fresh ginger, finely sliced negi, myoga (Japanese ginger bud), shiso chiffonade, and a single drop of high-quality soy sauce. The concept of eating this at the height of summer, when silken tofu has been chilled in cold water, is the embodiment of Japanese minimalist food philosophy.
Pure, clean, sweet soy protein; the katsuobushi's smoky umami; ginger's sharp warmth; soy sauce's savoury depth — four notes creating a chord that is much greater than its parts
The tofu must be purchased the day it is made — fresh silken tofu from a local tofu shop is a completely different product from the packaged versions available in supermarkets. Chill the tofu in cold water (not on ice, which can make the exterior watery) until very cold. Drain on a paper towel briefly before plating. Apply condiments at the moment of serving — katsuobushi wilts if applied early. Soy sauce should be excellent quality, applied in a minimal amount just before eating.
The most extraordinary version: fresh tofu made that morning from premium Hokkaido soybeans, chilled in cold mountain spring water, served simply with a single katsuobushi flake, a scrape of ginger, and a drop of good soy. The freshness of the soybean (shinmame, this season's soybeans) directly translates to sweetness and intensity in the finished tofu — this is why Japanese tofu shops specify their soybean origin. The hiyayakko experience is also a lesson in the Japanese capacity to find profound pleasure in extreme simplicity.
Using packaged tofu that has been in the refrigerator for days — the tofu flavor fades and the texture becomes waterlogged. Applying condiments early and letting them sit, which wilts delicate items like shiso and katsuobushi. Over-seasoning with soy sauce — a few drops is sufficient. Serving at room temperature instead of well-chilled.
Tsuji, Shizuo — Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art; Hosking, Richard — A Dictionary of Japanese Food