Mesoamerica — pre-Columbian delicacy; the Aztec word is cuitlacoche or huitlacoche (raven excrement — referring to the dark colour)
Huitlacoche (Ustilago maydis — corn smut fungus) is Mexico's culinary answer to black truffle — a fungus that infects corn kernels, causing them to swell and turn grey-black with a distinctive earthy, sweet, slightly smoky flavour. In pre-Columbian and Mexican cooking, it is considered a delicacy. The swollen kernels are removed from the cob and sautéed with onion, garlic, epazote, and chile, then used as a quesadilla filling, soup, tamale, or soup thickener. Fresh huitlacoche is available in Mexico during rainy season; canned is the international substitute.
Earthy, sweet, slightly smoky — distinctly fungal but with corn sweetness beneath; one of the most complex and unique flavours in Mexican cooking
{"Cook huitlacoche quickly — 5–8 minutes maximum; longer cooking loses the delicate flavour","Sauté with white onion and garlic first before adding huitlacoche — the aromatics build a foundation","Epazote is essential — the combination of epazote and huitlacoche is one of Mexico's great flavour pairings","Serrano chile added whole or sliced provides heat that cuts through the rich earthiness","Salt at the end — huitlacoche releases liquid during cooking; salt early draws out too much moisture"}
{"Fresh huitlacoche: look for grey-black, firm, not slimy kernels — slimy indicates overripe","The sautéed huitlacoche filling for quesadillas is Mexico's greatest quesadilla variant in the view of many chefs","Huitlacoche cream soup: sautéed huitlacoche blended with cream and chicken stock — elegant and deeply flavoured","For international substitutions: black truffle is the closest flavour analogue; but portobello + truffle oil approximates the earthiness"}
{"Over-cooking — the delicate flavour becomes muddy and one-dimensional after 10+ minutes","Under-seasoning — huitlacoche needs assertive salt and epazote to reveal its character","Not using epazote — it is the essential herbal partner; cilantro is not an adequate substitute","Using canned huitlacoche without draining — the canning liquid is bitter and should be discarded"}
My Mexico City Kitchen — Gabriela Cámara; The Art of Mexican Cooking — Diana Kennedy