Hummus: The Full-Cook Method

Hummus bi tahini is one of the most contested dishes in the Levant — every city, every family, every restaurant in Jerusalem, Tel Aviv, Beirut, and Damascus claims the definitive version. What separates restaurant-quality hummus from the tinned product is not the recipe but the technique: starting from dried chickpeas, cooking them to the point of complete softness, and processing while hot with large quantities of tahini and ice water until a texture approaching silk is achieved.

Dried chickpeas soaked overnight, cooked with bicarbonate of soda until completely tender (beyond what most Western recipes suggest), processed hot with tahini, lemon, garlic, and ice water until the mixture reaches a smooth, almost pourable consistency. Served warm, never cold, with olive oil and whatever garnish is appropriate.

• Turkish humus (same dish, slight regional variations in garlic intensity), Greek skordalia (chickpea or potato base, same smooth purée principle), Indian chana dal purée (different spicing, same legum

Hummus is a vehicle for olive oil — the best versions are barely seasoned because their purpose is to carry the flavour of excellent extra virgin olive oil and whatever is placed on top. Under-seasoned hummus corrected at the table with olive oil and za'atar is more honest than over-seasoned hummus served cold.