Involtini di pesce spada—swordfish rolls—are the signature seafood preparation of the Strait of Messina, where the ancient tradition of swordfish hunting (mattanza del pesce spada) from wooden boats yields the prized catch that defines the eastern Sicilian table. Thin slices of fresh swordfish are pounded gently, then spread with a filling that reads like a catalogue of Sicilian pantry ingredients: breadcrumbs moistened with olive oil, capers, pine nuts, currants, chopped olives, grated pecorino, and parsley—the same sweet-savoury-salty combination that characterizes so many Sicilian dishes. The filled slices are rolled tightly, skewered (traditionally alternating with bay leaves and slices of onion between each roll), and grilled over charcoal or baked in the oven. A salmoriglio sauce—a simple emulsion of olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, and oregano, whisked vigorously—is drizzled over the cooked rolls. The combination of the firm, meaty swordfish with the complex, textured filling and the bright salmoriglio creates a dish of remarkable depth. The swordfish must be impeccably fresh—it should smell of the sea, not of fish—and the slices must be thin enough to roll without cracking but thick enough to contain the filling. The tradition of swordfish hunting in the Strait of Messina is ancient—the Romans described it—and the boats with their tall watchtowers (feluche) are a fading but iconic sight. Involtini represent the Sicilian approach to seafood at its most sophisticated: the fish itself is excellent, but it becomes extraordinary when combined with the island's arsenal of preserved, sun-dried, and cured ingredients.
Use fresh swordfish, sliced thin and pounded gently. Fill with breadcrumbs, capers, pine nuts, currants, pecorino. Roll tightly and skewer with bay leaves. Grill over charcoal or bake. Dress with salmoriglio sauce (oil, lemon, oregano).
Ask the fishmonger to slice the swordfish on a machine for uniform thinness. Soak the currants in warm water before adding to the filling. The bay leaves between the rolls on the skewer add subtle aroma during grilling. Let the rolls rest 5 minutes after grilling before serving.
Using thick slices (won't roll). Overfilling (bursts open). Overcooking swordfish (becomes dry). Skipping the salmoriglio. Using stale breadcrumbs. Grilling over too-high heat.
Mary Taylor Simeti, Sicilian Food; Ferrara & Ferrara, Cucina Siciliana