Spanish — Charcuterie & Curing Authority tier 1

Jamón carving: the cortador technique

Spain (national technique)

The professional carving of jamón ibérico is a skilled trade in Spain — the cortador jamonero — and it is as technical as any knife skill. The goal is to produce slices that are transparent-thin, consistently sized (approximately 5-7cm long, 3-4cm wide), and include the correct ratio of lean meat to fat in each slice. The carving sequence is strictly defined: the maza (main face), the contramaza (opposite face), the babilla (the inner, leaner section), and the jarrete (shank). The correct carving tools: a ham stand (jamonero) that holds the leg at the correct angle; a long, narrow, flexible jamón knife; a rigid bone knife for clearing around the bone; a puntilla for detail work.

The leg is positioned maza-up first — this is the most valued face and should be opened carefully. Remove the outer skin and rind in a strip — not all at once — working only as far ahead as you are cutting. Slices must be transparent when held to the light. The knife moves in long, confident strokes — back and forth, applying pressure only on the forward stroke. Work parallel to the bone, never into it. Rotate the leg after the maza is fully carved.

A cortador jamonero competition takes place annually in Spain — the best cortadores produce slices so thin they fold without tearing. For non-specialist service, invest in a proper jamonero and take a short course. An improperly carved leg wastes significant value. The shank (jarrete) and the meat around the bone (el encuentro) are best used in cooking — in soups, with pulses, or in a caldo.

Cutting too thick — jamón loses all its delicacy at 3mm. Removing all the outer skin and rind before starting — it dries out the exposed meat. Working without the jamonero — the leg moves and cuts become irregular and dangerous. Neglecting the babilla — the inner face is leaner and more complex; many consider it the finest eating.

The Food of Spain by Claudia Roden