Japan — rice bran oil tradition from 8th century; sesame oil use from ancient period; modern kome abura industrial production from Meiji era
The role of cooking oils in Japanese cuisine — historically understudied compared to the spotlight on dashi, soy, and mirin — constitutes a specific and nuanced flavour and technique dimension. Japan's traditional cooking fat landscape was limited before the Meiji era: sesame oil (goma abura) was used sparingly as a finishing aromatic in tempura dipping oil and some stir-fry applications; rice bran oil (kome abura) was Japan's primary cooking oil from the 8th century onward, produced as a byproduct of rice polishing and valued for its high smoke point (approximately 250°C) and neutral flavour. The modern Japanese professional kitchen uses: kome abura (rice bran oil) as the default neutral frying oil — its high smoke point, neutral flavour, and oxidative stability make it superior to canola or soybean oil for tempura and deep-frying; pure sesame oil (jundai goma abura) — cold-pressed, pale golden, from unhulled sesame — for finishing and specific aromatic applications where its intense, roasted sesame aroma is desired; and kuro goma (black sesame oil) — more intensely aromatic, used very sparingly as a signature aromatic finish in specific preparations. Tempura oil culture is particularly specific: the classic Edomae tempura shop uses a blend of kome abura with a small proportion of sesame oil (the ratio and sesame type are often trade secrets) to create the characteristic tempura aroma. Lard (buta abura), now largely absent from home cooking, remains important in specific ramen and teppanyaki applications where pork fat flavour is part of the dish's identity.
Kome abura: neutral, clean; sesame oil: intensely aromatic, roasted, rich; lard: savoury, porky, rich — each functions in a different register of the flavour system
{"Rice bran oil (kome abura) is Japan's historical and technically superior neutral cooking oil — high smoke point, clean flavour, excellent oxidative stability","Sesame oil in Japanese cooking is a finishing aromatic, not a cooking medium — its flavour volatilises rapidly at frying temperature","Tempura oil is a blend — the specific ratio of neutral oil (kome abura) to sesame oil is the defining variable among traditional tempura shops","Lard for ramen and teppanyaki is a flavour ingredient, not merely a cooking medium — the animal fat character is intentionally incorporated","Oil freshness is a critical quality variable — used oil becomes saturated with water and food compounds, lowering smoke point and adding off-flavours"}
{"The best kome abura for home tempura: Tsukino or Honen brand, cold-pressed, from premium rice polishing mills — available in Japanese supermarkets; dramatically cleaner than grocery store canola","Tamago kake gohan (raw egg on rice) is elevated by a drop of good sesame oil — the aromatic complements the egg's richness without adding heat","Sesame oil added to the tsuyu dipping sauce base for cold soba creates a nutty, aromatic variant that is specifically a Tokyo style variation","Chicken fat (tori abura) rendered from chicken skin is used in some ramen shops as a finishing oil — adds distinct richness and aroma to shio-based Kyoto-style ramen","Ramen aroma oil (kaori oil) — infused oil with garlic, ginger, negi in rendered lard — is added as a final float on the broth surface at many shops"}
{"Using sesame oil as a frying medium — it has a low smoke point (175°C) and its aromatic compounds burn rapidly at frying temperature","Using cheap canola oil for tempura — produces a different, less clean result than kome abura; the oil flavour contaminates the tempura's delicacy","Not filtering and resting frying oil between uses — accumulated food particles continue cooking and produce off-flavours","Storing sesame oil in warm conditions — sesame oil oxidises rapidly; refrigeration extends quality significantly"}
Tsuji, S. (1980). Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art. Kodansha. (Chapter on cooking fats and oils.)