Japan — sesame introduced from China via Korea before the 8th century; suribachi grinding culture from Nara period; goma-ae dressing codified in professional kaiseki cooking from Edo period
Sesame (goma, 胡麻) occupies a central position in Japanese cooking as both a finishing aromatic and a flavour base, with a depth of application spanning from a simple sprinkle of toasted seeds to elaborate sesame-paste dressings (goma-ae) and sesame-based sauces for hot pots and soba. The Japanese sesame vocabulary is nuanced: shiro goma (white sesame), kuro goma (black sesame), and iri goma (toasted sesame) are distinct both in flavour profile and application. White sesame is the most versatile — roasted until golden (kinpira sesame), it provides a nutty warmth without overwhelming. Black sesame has a more intense, slightly bitter, roasted character, used in wagashi (black sesame ice cream, kuro goma mochi), and produces a striking visual contrast as garnish. Nerigoma is sesame paste — Japan's equivalent of tahini, made by stone-grinding toasted sesame until the oil releases and the paste becomes pourable; unlike Middle Eastern tahini which is often made from raw or lightly toasted seeds, nerigoma uses deeper-toasted seeds for more complex, deeply nutty flavour. Goma-ae (sesame dressing) is the most important application: ground toasted sesame, soy, mirin, and sugar combined for dressing blanched spinach, green beans, asparagus, or lotus root. The sesame must be ground by hand in a suribachi (Japanese mortar with ridged interior) — mechanical grinding produces a paste rather than the partially-ground texture that goma-ae requires for its characteristic speckled appearance and layered crunch-cream texture. Toasting sesame: the seeds must be continuously stirred in a dry pan until they pop and become fragrant — the pop indicates the cell walls have opened, releasing the oils.
Freshly toasted and ground sesame for goma-ae presents a warm, intensely nutty aroma and flavour with a layered texture — part paste, part whole seed — that coats blanched vegetables completely and provides satisfying fat richness against the vegetable's freshness
{"Three main types: shiro goma (white), kuro goma (black), iri goma (pre-toasted) — each has distinct application","White sesame is most versatile; black sesame has more intense, slightly bitter character","Nerigoma: stone-ground deeply toasted sesame paste — richer and more complex than Middle Eastern tahini","Goma-ae dressing: suribachi ground toasted sesame + soy + mirin + sugar — for blanched vegetables","Suribachi ridged mortar is required for goma-ae — mechanical grinding produces paste not the correct texture","Sesame toasting: continuous stirring in dry pan until seeds pop — the pop signals cell wall opening and oil release","Over-toasted sesame (past the pop) becomes bitter; under-toasted lacks aromatic depth","Goma-dare sesame sauce for shabu-shabu: nerigoma diluted with dashi and seasoned with soy, ponzu, sesame oil","Black sesame wagashi: ground kuro goma folded into shiroan for intense nutty bitter-sweet character","Sesame oil (gomaabura): dark toasted variety for finishing and flavour; light variety for frying applications"}
{"Suribachi technique for goma-ae: grind sesame in circular motion until about half the seeds are ground — the mix of ground paste and whole seeds is the correct texture","Black sesame ice cream: blend kuro goma paste with cream and a touch of mirin — the bitterness is rounded by fat and sweetness","Goma-dare calibration: start with 3:1:1 nerigoma:dashi:ponzu, adjust acid and salt to taste — baseline for shabu-shabu sauce","For premium goma-ae: toast sesame immediately before grinding — pre-toasted store-bought seeds have lost volatile aromatics","Kuro goma wagashi: fold ground black sesame into shiroan in ratio 1:3 — more black sesame produces overwhelming bitterness"}
{"Under-toasting sesame — pale seeds lack aromatic depth; must reach the popping stage","Over-toasting sesame — past golden to brown produces bitterness that overwhelms rather than adds depth","Using a food processor for goma-ae — mechanical blade produces paste; suribachi ridges maintain texture","Using tahini as a nerigoma substitute — Middle Eastern tahini is less deeply toasted, producing flatter flavour","Adding sesame oil at the start of cooking — dark sesame oil burns rapidly; always add at the end as a finishing element"}
Tsuji Shizuo — Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art