Japan (nationwide; Tokoname and Iga ceramic centres produce traditional suribachi)
The suribachi (grooved ceramic mortar) and surikogi (wooden pestle) form a distinctly Japanese grinding system designed primarily for sesame processing — a ubiquitous technique in Japanese cuisine that produces everything from goma-ae (sesame-dressed vegetables) to sesame dipping sauces, soups, and confectionery bases. Unlike smooth Western mortars optimised for pulverising, the suribachi's interior is covered with concentric ridged furrows (the 'kushi-me' or 'ridges of the comb') that grip and shear sesame seeds rather than simply crushing them — releasing oils through shearing rather than percussion. This produces a paste of different emulsification character: smoother, more oil-released, with richer aromatic compound extraction than crushing alone. The surikogi is made from dense, aromatic wood (typically mountain pepper, sansho, or similar) which imparts trace aromatic compounds during grinding — particularly relevant when the suribachi is also used for herbs, miso mixtures, or spice grinding. The size varies considerably: from small personal suribachi (10–12cm) for individual goma-ae portions to large professional units (30–35cm) for restaurant batch production. The ridge pattern wears over time with use, which paradoxically improves performance as peaks become slightly rounded — professional cooks prize well-worn suribachi. Cleaning requires care: the ridges harbour food particles and the ceramic absorbs flavours, making a dedicated sesame suribachi advisable for clean sesame flavour without taint.
Grinding vessel affects flavour release — well-made goma-ae depends on complete oil extraction
{"Ridged interior (kushi-me) shears rather than crushes — releases sesame oil through friction","Surikogi made from aromatic hardwood to impart trace compounds during grinding","Shearing action produces better oil emulsification than percussion grinding","Well-worn ridges (peaks rounded with use) perform better than new sharp ridges","Dedicated suribachi for sesame prevents flavour cross-contamination"}
{"Toast sesame seeds just before grinding — heat makes oil release easier and increases aroma","Grind in figure-8 motion rather than circular — engages the full ridge pattern more effectively","Add a pinch of salt to the sesame before grinding — salt crystals aid abrasion","Pairing: fresh goma-ae (spinach sesame salad) pairs beautifully with chilled junmai sake"}
{"Using a smooth Western mortar for Japanese sesame grinding — lacks the shearing action","Cleaning suribachi with strong detergent — absorbs soap compounds that taint subsequent use","Grinding cold sesame seeds — warm toasted sesame releases oils more readily","Insufficient grinding time — partially ground sesame in goma-ae creates uneven texture"}
Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art — Shizuo Tsuji; The Japanese Kitchen — Hiroko Shimbo