What are common mistakes when making Japanese Suribachi and Surikogi: The Grooved Mortar and Pestle?

Using a smooth Western mortar for Japanese sesame grinding — lacks the shearing action Cleaning suribachi with strong detergent — absorbs soap compounds that taint subsequent use Grinding cold sesame seeds — warm toasted sesame releases oils more readily Insufficient grinding time — partially ground sesame in goma-ae creates uneven texture

GN.33.0064 Japanese

Japanese Suribachi and Surikogi: The Grooved Mortar and Pestle

Equipment And Tools

Japanese Suribachi and Surikogi: The Grooved Mortar and Pestle

One of 53 entries · Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art — Shizuo Tsuji; The Japanese Kitchen — Hiroko Shimbo

I · Origin

Japan (nationwide; Tokoname and Iga ceramic centres produce traditional suribachi)

II · Description

The suribachi (grooved ceramic mortar) and surikogi (wooden pestle) form a distinctly Japanese grinding system designed primarily for sesame processing — a ubiquitous technique in Japanese cuisine that produces everything from goma-ae (sesame-dressed vegetables) to sesame dipping sauces, soups, and confectionery bases. Unlike smooth Western mortars optimised for pulverising, the suribachi's interior is covered with concentric ridged furrows (the 'kushi-me' or 'ridges of the comb') that grip and shear sesame seeds rather than simply crushing them — releasing oils through shearing rather than percussion. This produces a paste of different emulsification character: smoother, more oil-released, with richer aromatic compound extraction than crushing alone. The surikogi is made from dense, aromatic wood (typically mountain pepper, sansho, or similar) which imparts trace aromatic compounds during grinding — particularly relevant when the suribachi is also used for herbs, miso mixtures, or spice grinding. The size varies considerably: from small personal suribachi (10–12cm) for individual goma-ae portions to large professional units (30–35cm) for restaurant batch production. The ridge pattern wears over time with use, which paradoxically improves performance as peaks become slightly rounded — professional cooks prize well-worn suribachi. Cleaning requires care: the ridges harbour food particles and the ceramic absorbs flavours, making a dedicated sesame suribachi advisable for clean sesame flavour without taint.

III · The Thread

Stone grinding surface using friction rather than percussion for oil extraction → Sil batta (flat stone grinder) for wet grinding of spices and pastes Indian
Textured grinding surface that shears rather than simply crushes → Molcajete (basalt mortar) with textured surface for salsa grinding Mexican
Mortar technique that prioritises oil extraction and paste development → Krok (stone mortar) for curry paste — pounding with added friction Thai

IV · Flavour Context

Grinding vessel affects flavour release — well-made goma-ae depends on complete oil extraction

I The Method II The Canonical Dishes III Overview & Cultural Context IV General V Food Culture And Tradition VI Ingredients And Procurement VII Techniques VIII Ingredient Knowledge IX Regional Cuisine X Preparation

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