Suzhou and Hangzhou, Jiangnan — autumn seasonal tradition
An exquisite Jiangnan hot pot using fresh chrysanthemum petals scattered on the clear broth surface — as the diners cook thin slices of seafood and delicate tofu in the pot, the chrysanthemum petals drift and perfume the broth. The dish is seasonal (chrysanthemum blooms in autumn) and is associated with Suzhou and Hangzhou refinement. The clear chicken broth should be as transparent as water.
Ethereal — the chrysanthemum petals barely alter the broth flavour; it is the floral perfume and visual poetry that defines the dish; the pinnacle of Jiangnan restraint
{"Broth must be clear shang tang (superior stock) — chrysanthemum requires a delicate base","Fresh chrysanthemum petals (edible white or yellow varieties) scattered liberally on broth surface","Protein choices: delicate seafood only — shrimp, squid, thin fish slices; no heavy meats","The pot sits on a charcoal burner; diners cook briefly by swirling ingredients through the broth"}
{"Edible chrysanthemum (食用菊) specifically cultivated for cooking; chrysanthemum petals for teas are appropriate","The sesame oil and white pepper dipping sauce should be barely touched — the chrysanthemum-perfumed broth is the flavour","Autumn chrysanthemum season (October-November) is the only time this can be made with fresh petals"}
{"Using cloudy or heavily seasoned stock — defeats the delicate purpose","Non-edible chrysanthemum varieties — most commercial chrysanthemums are treated with pesticides","Adding too many flavours or condiments — this is a minimal, restrained preparation"}
Land of Fish and Rice — Fuchsia Dunlop