Jinhua ham (金华火腿) is China's most prized cured ham — produced exclusively in Jinhua city in Zhejiang province, from the Luchuan breed of pig known for its distinctive black and white colouring (the legs being black, giving rise to the poetic name 'Black Hoof' or wu jin hua, 乌金花). The pigs are fed on a specific diet in the humid Jinhua valley, and the hams are cured by hand-rubbing with salt over 30 days, then hung and air-cured for a minimum of 8 months — the best Jinhua ham is aged 18-36 months, developing an intensely concentrated umami depth comparable to the finest Italian prosciutto or Spanish jamón. It is used in Chinese cooking primarily as a flavour enhancer — in stocks, braises, and steamed dishes — rather than eaten raw.
Culinary use of Jinhua ham: Unlike Italian prosciutto or Spanish jamón which are eaten uncooked, Jinhua ham is typically used as a seasoning ingredient in Chinese cooking due to its very high salt content and concentrated flavour. A small piece of Jinhua ham added to a stock during simmering enriches it with deep umami and a subtle smokiness. It is used in Buddha Jumps Over the Wall, the qi guo ji steam pot chicken, and many Jiangnan and Cantonese braised dishes. Substitutions: Smithfield ham (American dry-cured ham) is the widely recommended substitute for Jinhua ham in Chinese cooking — it shares the dryness, saltiness, and concentrated umami of the Chinese original, though the specific terroir flavour differs. Prosciutto is an insufficient substitute — too moist and too mild. Storing Jinhua ham: Jinhua ham keeps at room temperature for months if kept dry and wrapped — the salt content is a sufficient preservative.
Fuchsia Dunlop, Land of Fish and Rice (2016); Fuchsia Dunlop, Invitation to a Banquet (2023)