Kaeng Pa (Jungle Curry)

Kaeng pa is the most ancient of the Thai curry forms — the paste-and-water braise that predates the influence of coconut and trade-route spices in the Thai kitchen. Thompson treats it as the baseline technique from which all the richer curries can be understood: if you understand kaeng pa, you understand what coconut milk does to a curry when it is added.

A curry with no coconut milk — a thin, fiery, broth-style curry made with a paste of dried chillies, galangal, lemongrass, kaffir lime zest, and shrimp paste, cooked in water or stock with whatever proteins and vegetables are available. Jungle curry (kaeng pa — forest curry) is the curry of the interior, where coconut palms do not grow — a preparation that demonstrates the Thai curry tradition's full range: from the rich, sweet coconut-milk curries of the coast and central plains to the sharp, intensely hot, broth-based curries of the mountain forest region. The absence of coconut milk is not a deficiency but a different philosophy: the paste's aromatic oils distribute directly through the broth, creating an entirely different flavour delivery than the fat-mediated aromatics of coconut milk curries.

• Cambodian samlor machu uses the same thin broth-and-paste-no-coconut structure
• Vietnamese canh chua is the same thin-broth-sour-herb format
• Lao tom khem is a northern Lao equivalent