Sichuan province, China. Named after Ding Baozhen (1820-1886), Qing Dynasty governor of Sichuan whose official title was Gong Bao (Guardian of the Palace). The dish was reportedly his favourite. After Ding's death, it was banned during the Cultural Revolution as decadent, then rehabilitated in the 1980s.
Kung Pao chicken (Gong Bao Ji Ding) is a Sichuan stir-fry of diced chicken, dried whole Sichuan chillies, Sichuan peppercorns, and peanuts in a sweet-hot-sour sauce. The authentic dish is named after Ding Baozhen, Governor of Sichuan, whose title was Gong Bao. The Sichuan peppercorn numbness (ma) is as important as the chilli heat (la) — without the mala combination, it is not authentic Kung Pao.
Tsingtao lager — the mild Chinese lager cuts through the Sichuan heat without competing. Or a glass of Jing brand baijiu mixed with soda water — the grain spirit of Sichuan is the authentic accompaniment.
{"The mala: Sichuan peppercorns (hua jiao) toasted dry until fragrant, then lightly crushed — added to the wok first to bloom in the oil. The numbing sensation is from the compound hydroxy-alpha-sanshool, which is volatile and must be bloomed in fat","Dried whole red chillies (er jing tiao): add whole with seeds. Split chillies release heat too quickly; whole chillies release heat more slowly","Chicken: boneless thigh, diced to 2cm, velvet-marinated (soy sauce, Shaoxing rice wine, cornstarch, and a small amount of oil) — the velveting technique keeps the chicken tender in the wok","The sauce: light soy sauce, Chinkiang (black) vinegar, Shaoxing wine, sugar, and cornstarch — pre-mixed and added all at once","The toss sequence: Sichuan peppercorns in oil first, then dried chillies, then chicken, then vegetables (spring onion, dried chilli), then sauce, then peanuts","Peanuts: deep-fried or dry-roasted, added at the very end to retain crunch"}
The moment where Kung Pao lives or dies is the chilli and Sichuan peppercorn oil — the first 30 seconds in a hot wok where the dried whole chillies and peppercorns bloom in the oil. The oil should be hot enough to immediately sizzle around the chillies. The smell will be intensely aromatic — the oils from the Sichuan pepper dispersing into the cooking fat. This oil is the flavour base for everything that follows.
{"Skipping the velveting marinade: unwelcomed chicken toughens immediately in the wok","Removing the chilli seeds: the heat level drops significantly","Using pre-ground Sichuan pepper: the volatile compounds have off-gassed — bloom whole, lightly crushed peppercorns"}